Yesterday I bought a used gas caddy that came with a hand crank rotary pump. This pump appears to be made in China and has straight thread inlet and outlet in a size I've never seen before. It's a bit too small to start a half-in. NPT pipe into. The pump did not include a suction pipe and this is what has me stymied.
I'm having difficulty searching for metric pipe adapters so I'm wondering if I would be better off to drill and tap the inlet to 1/2-in NPT.
I just typed "npt to metric thread adapter" into my search engine and many choices appeared. Before ordering I would spend a little time measuring to determine exactly what threads you have. You could have metric but also need to determine if they are tapered or straight threads. Sometimes carts like that use hoses/fittings that have gaskets instead of using tapered threads like NPT.
Measure "exactly" what threads I need? Pipe sizes are nominal, not exact, and that's part of the problem.
A 20mm x 1.5 nut fits the male pipe threads loose. 18mm won't start. There is no English thread that fits.
Since this is just slightly smaller than 1/2"NPT I'm going to drill & tap it so I'll be in familiar "US Standards" territory.
As for mounting it on the tank there's a large bung in the top with an adapter collar that tightens into the suction pipe. The ID of that collar measures .74" and 1/2" pipe is nominally .84" so that'll have to be drilled out too. These parts are cast iron & plenty fat enough to be upsized.
Piece of crap pump won't self-prime.
If I prime it it'll deliver 4gpm without breaking a sweat but if I stop for a few seconds it drains down & won't restart.
I think I'm wasting my time with a manual pump. I need an electric pump so I can keep my attention on the nozzle end.
There are 12 VDC and 120 VAC gasoline transfer pumps but they are well over a hundred dollars. Make sure you get a gasoline rated pump and not a fuel pump which are usually only for diesel, kerosene & oil. Pay very careful attention to bonding/grounding. Transferring diesel or oil is one thing but gasoline can be an explosive monster so avoiding sparks is extremely important.
Thanks PD.
I've spent a couple frustrating hours trying to find a quality 12v or battery-operated "gasoline" pump for under $100. There are MANY on eBay and Amazon that have "gasoline" in the title of the ad but if you read the description carefully you'll find it's NOT rated for gasoline!
I have one of those $10-$15 "stick" pumps that have become popular at my cottage and one at my home. They work quite well but are a little slow.
For some reason a longer version of the same pump that can be used in a caddy or drum costs $75+.
Problem mostly solved.
I took one of those stick pumps and cut the tube in half, soldered in wire, and glued in an extension made from a tight-fitting aluminum broom handle.Just needs a longer hose.
I don't think that tank was set up for a pump.
Looks like it needed some type of air compressor to charge the tank and blow the fuel out of the already connected line.
That port in the top is specifically for a rotary pump & the tank came with a screw-in collar that clamps to the suction tube.
I like the electric pump so I can watch the fill rather than be cranking the pump.
I have another caddy at my cottage and that one only has the hose & fill cap. No way to use a stiff pump--but a flexible submersible one might work IF I can get used to dropping a motor & wires into 25 gallons of gasoline!
On that one I DO use a small air pump (meant for inflatables) to pressurize the tank, thru a modified cap. 1.5psi will push gas up to 6 feet...2psi and it'll really gush.
My (minor) quibble with that setup is the pump is designed to shut off when the pressure setting is reached. It doesn't restart so I have to cycle the power a couple times to keep the tank pressurized as the gas is flowing out.
Hi guys, I am currently trying to replace the cartridge inside my shower handle. Of course, before I do this, I have to turn the water off going to the shower and open the faucet handle so that any remaining water is relieved from the pipes. The problem is, when I do this, there is still a very small trickle of water that's still coming out of the shower faucet.
In my basement, there are 4 multi turn valves. One of them primarily turns off the water going to the shower, but that still leaves water trickling out. When I turn off the other 3, the trickle slows even more. Even when all 4 valves are turned all the way to the right such that I can't twist anymore, there is still a small trickle of water.
What do I do at this point? Is it safe to take the cartridge out of the handle even with a slight trickle or will that just create more problems? If the trickle needs to be completely stopped, then what do I do?
Thanks for your help!
This 18 pipe wrench was a life saver last week when I was installing new black iron pipes for gas. It gripped the pipes like a gorilla and gave me the ability to tighten.
[url]https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-steel-pipe-wrench-61350.html[/url]
I bought it two years ago but have never used it until last week. The wrench is steel which brings me to my question. Why is this aluminum wrench (version) costs twice as much as the steel wrench beside the fact that it is lighter. When I spoke to the rep today, he said to stick with the steel version.
Aluminum
[url]https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/18-in-aluminum-pipe-wrench-63652.html[/url]
I decided to buy the 10 inch.
[url]https://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-steel-pipe-wrench-39642.html[/url]
[b]Still would like to know Aluminum vs Steel for this wrench.[/b]
Thanks
07-25-21, 07:35 PM
