My kitchen sink clogs every 1-3 months. I've measured the slope and it's seems correct (1/4 inch per foot). However, I'm questioning the angle at both ends of this pipe. As shown in this picture, this end goes up to the sink. The other end has similar angle but goes down to the floor. Every time I unclog the pipe using the auger, I have to do it three times otherwise it will only last a couple of days. It seems either sludge or waste from the food disposal didn't get carry down properly to the main pipe. Our previous house didn't have this problem at all. Before I call a professional plumber, I like to see if there is anything I can do. In additional, are there other ways to resolve this issue even if I call a professional plumber over?
I have a drop ceiling so I can see the pipe from the kitchen sink side of the wall all the way to the other end of the room where it ends up in the concrete floor. I hope the image below is a bit more clear.
The best way to prevent clogs is to stop putting grease and other clogging materials down the drain - pour the grease into a can and scrape dishes into the garbage instead of the garbage disposal.
I’ve had a problem almost every year with our kitchen sink. Different plumbers and water-jet companies came by, only for the problem to re-occur months later.
haven’t had a problem for about a year…..it usually starts up again in October, so we’ll see.
here’s what I did:
1. Plumber augered it.
2. Professional Water jet
3. plumber augered it
4. plumber removed two 90 degree elbows and put in 45s
5. completely removed garbage disposal
6. I rented an auger and did it myself
7. started monthly treatment of enzyme cleaner
i think the enzyme cleaner actually caused the last clog we had. It must have dislodged some part of the blockage.
because of the elbows in my line, the auger can’t clean the entire sidewall….just punches a 1” hole.
no problem since I last augered it and co tinted to use the enzymes monthly.
Buy a strainer for your sink so that small bits and pieces don't get stuck. Also, grease or any oils (alongside coffee ground) should not be disposed of on the sink. You can collect the grease with a plastic container and throw it away at a nearby gutter.
I've seen a lot of clogging problems under kitchen sinks when 1 1/2" pipe was exclusively used. I always found it best to increase the pipe size to at least 2" as soon as possible past the 1 1/2" trap.
what's the horizontal pipe at the top of the first pic? is that the vent? how is your system vented? venting, pipe angles, pipe size, pitch, traps, and NO grease or garbage.
Advice on doing it right! Could use a little guidence here. While googling I found another very helpful post on here so I thought I would lay out my project for expert guidence. :)
The washing machine dumps into the kitchen sink drain (with dishwasher) and runs under the house. I discovered this pipe is broken about a foot underground. I sent a cemta down but it got to foggy for me to make sense of anything. I strongly suspect it still goes to the old septic system which was switched to city sewer 15-20 years ago. The bathroom was also redone at that time and that's tied into the city sewer.
MY thoughts are to redo the entire kitchen setup and have shoot over to the city sewer at the bathroom completely eliminating the septic system. Also redoing water ones but already have that figured out.
Also, We have had issues whenever a decent amount of toilet paper is used about 10 feet out. I now believe I see where the problem is so Im thinking this will all probably need to be redone and have the run from the kitchen tie in.
What's the best way to make this happen?
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Plumbers installed lines for my saniflo toilet in the laundry room today but I think they may have done it incorrectly. They are coming back tomorrow to set the toilet so I would like to know if I need them to fix this when they are out.
the vertical pipe off the macerator is the vent for it. Next they put the saniflo drain into a wye and below that is the washer drain into a wye. I believe the saniflo drain should have been below the washer drain or that the washer needs a separate vent. Is that correct?
If so it would be very difficult to have enough space to run the saniflo lower than the washer and the standpipe still be tall enough. I think the best solution might be to cut off the vent he made for the saniflo and use it as the washer vent. Then turn the pipe coming off the saniflo so it’s vent runs up the other side of the stud and then over to the stack. Would that work?
and no this is not an exterior wall if anyone is wondering about the insulation. I think it is there for sound suppression.
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