Bathtub faucet is dripping. I started to take the faucet handle apart - one phillips screw holding it in. But the screw hole is stripped. Tried 3 different size screwdrivers but none will turn the screw (photo attached). Any suggestions?
Thanks Pete and XSleeper. Question on the screw extractor set - just researched a bit. Does this tool just bore into the screw and grab ahold? Or what exactly?
Yes. Try PJ's idea first. Sometimes you can pinch it and crack it loose. You could also try putting one end of the dykes in the center of the stripped phillips head and the other on the outside of the screw, and see if you can pinch and twist.
If you have a Dremel type tool with a cut off disc, you can remove parts of the screw head leaving two parallel sides. Grad the two sides of the head with locking pliers and rotate screw.
I'm running 3 inch pvc pipe 20 foot horizontally from my toilet to my septic drain. From the beginning to end of my first 10 foot length I should have a 2 1/2 inch drop from my floor which will give me a 1/4" pitch, I add a coupling and another 10 foot length and I should have a 5 inch drop at the end of my 20 foot right? I have a 4' digital carpenters level which has a angle mode I can set for 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc, right now my pipe is temporally hanging with a drop of 5 inches from beginning to end at 20 feet which should be correct for a 1/4 inch pitch. I put my carpenter level on and it's only showing an 1/8 inch pitch, I'm not sure if I should go with my 5 inch drop at the end of 20 feet or go by the level, is a carpenters level different from a plumbers level for showing pitch?
Purchased a home on a well (well pressure is good) and owner prior to the last changed plumbing to PEX. Problem is they ran 1/2" from supply to everything so water pressure is non-existent. Upgrading the supply lines to 3/4" and have several questions.
Can the 1/2" to the water heater remain? Is there a product that meets code to insulate PEX as it is connected directly to the gas water heater or do they need to be changed out to copper 18" above connection? Right now they are wrapped in some form of insulated covering.
Almost all the corners are 90 degree sharkbite connectors, do those decrease pressure enough to be concerned or should they be replaced with longer runs of 1/2" and sweeping bends?
The PEX is run above the drop ceiling in basement so it connects directly back to the copper pipe leading to the bathroom and kitchen right at the floor line, thinking to leave those connections as is since only running new 3/4" supply. The way all the existing is run it goes from the water softener, runs up the wall and branches off in several directions towards the laundry room, bathroom and kitchen. To reroute everything would mean redoing the whole system and start from scratch. Any thought? Had a plumber come by and the way I am doing is what they had planned.
Thanks,
Any insight would be appreciated.
09-14-21, 03:13 PM
