My plumber backed out on us and have not been able to get any call backs from any others, so looks like we are on our own. I am trying to plan my under slab stuff so we can pour.
The drain seems pretty straight forward, but the venting has me confused. See plumbing layout below. Note we will have two sinks in the master bath, plan shows one. Also we have a one room loft directly above both bathrooms, so hopefully can vent around that room?
Questions:
1. What fixtures should/can I combine to vent together?
2. Do all vent pipes need to connect under slab close the all p-traps then come up a wall?
I'd lay it out something like this. Red indicates vents.
Other notes:
* Vents on exterior walls are difficult to deal with once you get to the roof. You may not have a choice for the kitchen, but the laundry should certainly go up an interior wall if possible
* 2" vents for each bathroom sinks. That covers the toilet and shower/tub. 3" vent is not required in the bath
Wow thanks for the diagram, it really helps to see it. So 3” is not required for toilet vents, just drain?
Should I combine the kitchen sink and washer vents in the attic and vent just those through the roof? Or can they attach to the bathroom vents also?
thanks for your help.
The answer to your questions is in the plumbing code. Since you are going to be doing the work I strongly suggest that you actually read it since there are numerous potential pitfalls if you are not prepared.
You can use different size vent pipes depending on your needs. Each pipe has the capacity to handle multiple fixtures. For example, a 2" vent pipe can handle up to 24 fixture units. Each bathroom sink counts as one, a tub or shower counts as two, and a modern toilet three. The code also specifies the maximum distance the vent connection can be from the trap it is protecting. The distance varies depending on the size of the pipe.
Venting is one area that many people screw-up so it will pay to be educated up front. Another area that catches many people is when to use "sanitary T's" versus "Wye's".
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On a side note. You did not say where you are located but I try to avoid piping on exterior walls as much as possible because of the freezing risk it poses. And, as Zorfdt mentioned dealing with vent pipes in an exterior wall is a pain. If your vents are located in the interior of the home they can more easily be combined in the attic to minimize the pentrations through the roof.
Thanks Pilot, yes venting does seem to be where I’m most confused. I’m probably over thinking it which I tend to do. I have been reading through the IPC code and the Louisiana Plumbing Code. I am in extreme south Louisiana, so freezing isn’t a major problem. Also my exterior walls are getting closed cell spray foam.
I think I was confusing the 3” toilet drain with vent size. Thanks for the help. I’m trying to learn before I do.
Plumbers installed lines for my saniflo toilet in the laundry room today but I think they may have done it incorrectly. They are coming back tomorrow to set the toilet so I would like to know if I need them to fix this when they are out.
the vertical pipe off the macerator is the vent for it. Next they put the saniflo drain into a wye and below that is the washer drain into a wye. I believe the saniflo drain should have been below the washer drain or that the washer needs a separate vent. Is that correct?
If so it would be very difficult to have enough space to run the saniflo lower than the washer and the standpipe still be tall enough. I think the best solution might be to cut off the vent he made for the saniflo and use it as the washer vent. Then turn the pipe coming off the saniflo so it’s vent runs up the other side of the stud and then over to the stack. Would that work?
and no this is not an exterior wall if anyone is wondering about the insulation. I think it is there for sound suppression.
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I have a Little Giant shallow well jet pump connected to a 1000 gallon rain water tank. The foot valve is located about 6 inches above the bottom of the tank to avoid debris. When the installation was new the pump built pressure in a 20 gallon bladder tank very quickly. Now it runs much longer to reach cutoff pressure. I have completely rebuilt the pump but still have the problem. I suspect there may be sufficient debris in the bottom of the tank to interfere with water flow. Is there a way to test this theory short of digging up the tank to inspect the space? Will such a pump cavitate and make a noise if restricted? Would I be smart to tap a hole in the suction pipe and attack a suction gage?
10-20-21, 02:29 PM
