Moved from an apartment to a flipped house this month. Had the inspection done and requested certain repairs. There are still many repairs/improvements needed. Top on the list is the gas dryer line. Ordered a gas dryer simply knowing there was a gas connection in the basement. Day of installation the installers say I would need a longer duct and could not complete the dryer installation. They left to go outside to their truck and I wanted to know more. I ran in on them updating the job details and the person on the other end asked how long of a duct I might need and they said 20 ft, to which the person exclaimed "Jesus, that's a fire hazard!" Understandably, I refused the 20 ft dryer duct solution. I have approached five "professionals" so far - two declined, one seemed to know nothing, one provided an outrageous 830% more quote than the lowest quote, and the last one's quote was still high as we have been set back by the major expenses. I am willing to put in the work and get it done right.
I have the gas line coming in the basement. At the 30 in mark, it branches off and one branch goes to the stove upstairs and the furnace. The second branch continues 105 in and makes a 90° down and then another 90° to the left for 60 in to the wall, then another 60 in down the wall for the dryer connection. I would like to move this gas line for the dryer closer to where the gas line is coming in from and, if possible, reuse the parts. Please see the attached pictures. I tried to measure the pipes' diameter a rudimentary way since I do not own a wrench. I understand it may not be correct. The main line measured 1.75 in. The first branch that went toward the dryer measured 1.375 in. The line that hooked up the dryer is a 1 in. Any instructions on how to go about this are appreciated. Please mention all the tools required however basic they may be. The line that goes toward dryer Main gas line coming into the basement
Gas supply piping is regulated by code and usually is required to be installed (or modified) by a licensed plumber or gas fitter. It requires a really good knowledge of pipe fittings, testing, inspection, and the proper tools and is not generally a DIY project. (I know I may get some flak from others about this but your description of the project indicates to me that you do not have the appropriate level of skills or tools to do this part of the job. Cost may be an issue now but blowing up your house will be a much bigger problem.)
Venting the dryer can definitely be DIY. As others have stated, use rigid vent duct and minimize any flex. Allow for the vent pipe to be opened for regular inspection and to clear out lint by leaving room to disassemble or by installing cleanout tees. Minimize the number of elbows.
Your main gas line from the meter should be 3/4 iron pipe (maybe 1"). All branches going to appliances should be 1/2. This is typical. Yours may be different. As far as the exhaust goes. 20 feet is not uncommon. But using rigid pipe with the ability to disconnect for cleaning twice a year is important. Flex pipe from the dryer to the ceiling is OK as long as the main pipe is rigid. You should check with your local town to find out what the max length allowed for dryer vent.
20' is not an issue, I dont recall max length but the more elbows you have that subtracts. I opt for as little flex as possible and that does not include that cheap plastic stuff you have, only use metal duct.
Look on the fittings, the pipe sizes are usually cast on them.
Gas supply piping is regulated by code and usually is required to be installed (or modified) by a licensed plumber or gas fitter. It requires a really good knowledge of pipe fittings, testing, inspection, and the proper tools and is not generally a DIY project. (I know I may get some flak from others about this but your description of the project indicates to me that you do not have the appropriate level of skills or tools to do this part of the job. Cost may be an issue now but blowing up your house will be a much bigger problem.)
Venting the dryer can definitely be DIY. As others have stated, use rigid vent duct and minimize any flex. Allow for the vent pipe to be opened for regular inspection and to clear out lint by leaving room to disassemble or by installing cleanout tees. Minimize the number of elbows.
In your discussion you were mixing gas line and vent line. The installer said that a 20' vent line is too long. It's a little on the long side but it just requires yearly cleaning.
The gas line is a different thing. There isn't a length limit as long as the proper sized pipe is used.
The exhaust duct for gas dryers, regardless of length should be all-metal. Plastic foil ducting is hazardous in that usage. Remember it carries both flue gas and moist air. If the duct showing in your lowest picture is for a gas dryer, it should be replaced with an all-metal duct. We didn’t see your layout, but ideally, the exhaust duct should be as short and straight as reasonable. The dryer will perform better the shorter and cleaner the duct. It is better to route the gas line over a long distance than the dryer flue.
The exhaust duct material shown in the picture is legal (but not ideal) for dryer exhaust. It's the vinyl material that is illegal for exhaust use. If you must use a flexible material use non-foil or expandable metal. But as mentioned before all rigid is best.
When posting this, I had an error and thought the thread was not created. I was surprised to see notification of responses yesterday. I am glad to get the responses. There are certain things I would like to clarify. I am looking for a solution to add a dryer line, if possible, from the branching of the main line so that the dryer line is closer to the wall near the vent. The washer will be against the wall where the main gas line is entering the house.
That duct in the photo is the old one and will be tossed out. I did get a semi-rigid duct with the dryer (still intact in its packaging), but I do want to get it replaced with an all-metal duct. I will look into the cleanout tees. One of the professionals I contacted agreed to come down and then called back to say that "after googling it," that was not something they could take on. Another professional asked to call the gas company to turn off the gas before commencing the work and there were other things he mentioned that made us doubt if he was up to the task.
If you are reading this and can offer advice to help out, it is much appreciated. I will get all of the necessary tools to get the job done. I also contacted the gas company in this regard. I do understand some states require modifications be done by licensed professionals. Attaching a picture of the layout of the lines as seen from above or below. If the picture does not attach, here is the link.
Last edited by PJmax; 11-02-21 at 03:50 PM.
Reason: added pic from link
If all you want to do is extend the dryer gas line 20' to the right/left, it's an easy project for a plumber to complete. I wouldn't get into changing the main trunk lines as it gets much more complicated with cutting pipe to the correct sizes, adding unions, etc. By just extending the 1/2" dryer line, you're just adding more pipe and moving the shutoff to the end.
Gas piping isn't difficult, but it's right on the edge of a DIY project. If a water line leaks, it can cause a mess. If a gas line leaks, it can cause much larger problems. So it's really important you can make good connections and test the connections. Most would recommend (and inspectors require) a pressure test of any new piping to be sure it can hold 15PSI of air for 30-60 minutes. This ensures the few-psi gas pressure is safe. Soap bubble testing is also used, but requires more patience and checking.
But in the end, all you should need is a few 90 degree fittings and a length or two of 1/2" pipe to get to the correct location.
Can you take a picture of the wall where the gas pipe currently terminates for the dryer and an indication of where it you want it moved to.
I don't clearly see the new gas line.
Based on the diagram.... I take it as the dark blue line, light blue to stove and medium blue to dryer are all 1/2". If that is correct..... there is not enough capacity.
20' of 1/2" of gas line with no fittings is good for 75k btu max.
A stove is 40-45k and a dryer is 30k.
The dark blue would need to be 3/4" minimum.
No offense, but if you don't have, or know which tools will be required to do this job, it's something you shouldn't try to do yourself. It isn't easy.
Even trained and certified people from the gas company make mistakes. I had a propane pipe installed by the gas co. technician, who tested his work with some kind of meter. Said it was all good.
I sprayed some dish-washing liquid & water on the pipe joint - it leaked. He fixed it.
If I hadn't done that, it would have leaked slowly for years, costing money or maybe blowing up some day.
If the professionals don't always get it right, what are the chances you will be successful?
I agree with Zorftd, it's not brain science or rocket surgery . But you do need to be careful and make sure your connection are tight.
I relocated a 50 foot gas line right from the meter when I moved into this house 40 some odd years ago. Then added branch pipe for a gas dryer. Also had to relocate the water heater gas line and furnace gas line. The previous owner thought he was a DIY's but missed the mark by a mile. The house was originally all electric. He had natural gas installed, but did all internal piping himself. Piping was not supported properly and was run in the wrong direction.
Same thing with electric. He had three way switches that never worked properly. He wired them all wrong.
We have an older forced hot water heating system (probably about 20+ years old) , but I am a firm believer of "If it ain't broke, don't fix"
The problem is we will be out of country for about a month during Jan - Feb and apprehensive about pipe burst IF the heating system stops. We live in New England where winter is brutal.
Question --
Will it help if I use a pipe heating cable and wrap the pipe from entry point to first few feet ?.
I will also leave at least one faucet dripping
What type of fitting is this and does it require tape or dope?
I've changed the faucet and there's a very slow leak from the fitting thread/valve
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