Yes, if tightening it doesn't stop the leak, replace the braided hose like for like. If those hoses are tightened TOO TIGHT it can also cause a leak. They just need to be snug. No dope.
There is an oval shaped rubber seal in a compression fitting on a hose. They only need to be tightened just over hand tight. Can the rubber fitting get damaged.... yes. You should be able to look at it and see the damage.
Hi all,
Moved from an apartment to a flipped house this month. Had the inspection done and requested certain repairs. There are still many repairs/improvements needed. Top on the list is the gas dryer line. Ordered a gas dryer simply knowing there was a gas connection in the basement. Day of installation the installers say I would need a longer duct and could not complete the dryer installation. They left to go outside to their truck and I wanted to know more. I ran in on them updating the job details and the person on the other end asked how long of a duct I might need and they said 20 ft, to which the person exclaimed "Jesus, that's a fire hazard!" Understandably, I refused the 20 ft dryer duct solution. I have approached five "professionals" so far - two declined, one seemed to know nothing, one provided an outrageous 830% more quote than the lowest quote, and the last one's quote was still high as we have been set back by the major expenses. I am willing to put in the work and get it done right.
I have the gas line coming in the basement. At the 30 in mark, it branches off and one branch goes to the stove upstairs and the furnace. The second branch continues 105 in and makes a 90° down and then another 90° to the left for 60 in to the wall, then another 60 in down the wall for the dryer connection. I would like to move this gas line for the dryer closer to where the gas line is coming in from and, if possible, reuse the parts. Please see the attached pictures. I tried to measure the pipes' diameter a rudimentary way since I do not own a wrench. I understand it may not be correct. The main line measured 1.75 in. The first branch that went toward the dryer measured 1.375 in. The line that hooked up the dryer is a 1 in. Any instructions on how to go about this are appreciated. Please mention all the tools required however basic they may be.
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/960x1280/img_1990_2__4e6f9cb69859b197cb3ee393e2917f61bcaec63b.jpg[/img]
[i]The line that goes toward dryer[/i]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1440x1920/unnamed_2__70acc40d0b04266ca08234efd46c582ec58eb45b.jpg[/img]
[i]Main gas line coming into the basement[/i]
We have a home with 1 shower/tub combo that has 3 valves (no pressure balancing or anti scald). When the tub is running you get full pressure and can balance the temperature just fine. When you turn on the shower though you have to turn the hot all the way on and barely have the cold water on. The shower then starts this loud fluttering noise until you turn the cold back up which gives you a cold shower or turn it back to the tub so no shower. Every other fixture gets hot water high pressure no issues. I replaced the hot cold and diverter cartridge's with OEM problem seems to be worse. Is the diverter the issue. this problem had gotten gradually worse since we bought the house 2 years ago, meaning hot water was starting to fade in shower but not this bad. I heard that it is potentially back flowing from cold to hot or that we need a spring check valve at the heater hot water pipe, air gap devices, old pipes (copper), failing water heater. arrgh. Please help get her off my back.🙄
11-07-21, 11:44 AM
