hello everyone.. i have a unique situation, and would like to know the best way to approach this without spending a ton of money or opening walls above.
i have an existing floor drain in the basement, that goes into a pit, and discharges to the main stack.
this has a 1-1/2" out and 1-1/2" vent that goes straight to roof. (maybe it switches to 2" somewhere, but from the basement and up into the 1st floor, its 1-1/2".)
anyway, i will convert the 1-1/2" to 2" for discharge, but i want to leave the 1-1/2" vent alone. here is a diagram of what i want to do, and see if this will work, or do i need to add more vents, or any other suggestions are very very appreciated. thank you in advance.
When planning a basement bathroom you have pretty much two options for the pump. One is a traditional pit with a macerating pump. You'll probably need to dig out and swap out the pit liner you have now since if it's for storm water it won't be sealed correctly for sewage.
Sometimes a Saniflo type system is easier since it doesn't have to be buried. Plus the plumbing requirements are simpler.
Another reason to go Saniflo is that it requires only a 1.5" vent. A sewage ejector pit/pump requires a 2" vent as you're still venting the toilet per standard codes.
so to clarify:
I have an existing floor drain, that goes into existing pit, that has a regular pump in there, 1-1/2" vent and 1-1/2" discharge into 2" that goes into main stack. this is separate from my existing sump pit that discharges outside.
i want to pull out the pit, put in proper ejector pit, and ejector pump.. convert 1-1/2" discharge into 2" discharge, but leave the 1-1/2" vent to the roof. since im not sure i have access to this 1-1/2 on the 1st and 2nd floor, to either check if its changes to 2" above, or is 1-1/2" all the way to the roof.
Developed length included everything? even up to the roof?
ive read online, that the pit must have its own dedicated vent, up to the roof? but then, i've seen and read online that its combined with bathroom fixture vents as well.. its all very confusing... was looking for advice and how to do it in a way that i wont have issues in the future when selling...
Yes, the total length of the vent from your pit in the basement all the way to where it ends above the roof. The reason is the walls of the pipe create resistance to airflow. Longer, smaller pipe can't move air as well as shorter or larger pipe.
Good day gents.. Searched a lot of posts on here and elsewhere to no avail so hoping you could shed some light on a problem that recently developed with my upstairs 'master' shower. This is an addition built in1982 to the rear of the original house that was built in 1949 on concrete slab. I wasn't here when the addition was done. 1/2" copper piping is used though out and the 'new' water lines were run in the ceiling thru the old house to the addition which is now the floor of the master bedroom and ensuite. The shower hadn't been used/idle for about a month (being ill and then away then using the downstairs tub instead) and recently when getting back into the shower I noticed a considerable drop in the cold water. The hot is ok. It an older Delta (Deltique) Series 800 shower faucet and I've thoroughly cleaned the shower head. In my readings I thought it might be the cartridge, so I sourced out a new one and finally got to replace it today. When I removed the original one I was hoping to find maybe a deteriorated rubber seat or gunk in the assembly but it was in good shape, no gunk and the seats were intact..just a little flattened but otherwise ok. I put in the new cartridge and seats anyway but no luck on the pressure issue. I fiddled with the cold water pressure balance screw on the right of the cartridge but that is open completely and the volume stem below the cartridge functions normally but doesn't improve Cold water flow. So now I'm stumped and figure there must be some blockage in the cold water line that feeds the faucet somewhere. There's a bidet next to the shower, and a soaker tub next to that with a double sink on the opposite wall. Both hot and cold are fine in these fixtures.
Any ideas on what could be the problem.. or will I have start opening up floors and walls...?? Ugh...
Thanks for your assistance.....
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Want to clarify this clearly is not the best route but we were 50 miles from the closest big box store with limited supplies at the local hardware store. Ran into a situation when helping someone this weekend, old home that they plan to move out soon. Replacing kitchen faucet and turned out they were gas fittings instead of water fittings. Avoiding tearing into the wall, used the yellow gas line as a water line. Local hardware store said it was acceptable but wanted to get everyone's thoughts.
11-19-21, 08:48 AM
