Folks, there is a leak underneath the collar, orange arrow. It looks like a split in the collar rather than a break right flush with the threads. It's underneath the collar you can't see it in the pic. Purple arrow shows the valve so all in all there ain't much room. I was thinking on 'dremeling' off the collar piece, but I wouldn't be surprised if its also had cement added at time of construction. Thoughts? Approaches? Any help would be appreciated. I'm pretty handy with piping and cement and also the screw on unions.
Thanks
The gray piece is a valve.
Getting the old parts out is the easy part. It's the replacement that's going to be tricky.
Two connectors, a union and a piece of pipe may be all you need.
Unfortunately the unions get pretty big quickly based on pipe size.
I had to make a similar repair and I couldn't move the valve or the Tee.
In the diagram the red fittings (1) are threaded right angle fittings.
Male threads on one end and female pipe on the other end.
The yellow fittings are street elbows. One side goes into fitting 1. The other side gets a piece of pipe to go to the other # 2 fitting.
The #1 fittings get installed first.
The #2 fittings and the piece of pipe get assembled as one assembly.
Then the #2 fittings and the pipe get glued into the #1 fittings.
First you need to dig more dirt out to give you some room.
Not positive what the gray fitting is but it looks like you have 2 adaptors with a piece of PVC in between.
From what I see, I'd cut the PVC pipe out, remove both adaptors, replace, spread the top tee and bottom gray apart and glue in a new piece of PVC pipe in between!
The gray piece is a valve.
Getting the old parts out is the easy part. It's the replacement that's going to be tricky.
Two connectors, a union and a piece of pipe may be all you need.
Unfortunately the unions get pretty big quickly based on pipe size.
I had to make a similar repair and I couldn't move the valve or the Tee.
In the diagram the red fittings (1) are threaded right angle fittings.
Male threads on one end and female pipe on the other end.
The yellow fittings are street elbows. One side goes into fitting 1. The other side gets a piece of pipe to go to the other # 2 fitting.
The #1 fittings get installed first.
The #2 fittings and the piece of pipe get assembled as one assembly.
Then the #2 fittings and the pipe get glued into the #1 fittings.
Thank you guys, and Mr. PJ Max thank you for that excellent diagram and description. I think I have all those bits kicking around from prior fixes and also have some of the black flexi pipe that should help in this situation. Good stuff, thank you sir, this should work.
You won't need any black pipe, the repair is all pvc. 2 threaded connections and the rest is glued pvc fittings and pvc pipe. Buy a short length of pipe and cut it to fit.
OK she is up and running, thanks for the help. I had to go around the houses with the piping to get enough clearance, as there wasn't enough room between the 2 right angled elbows in PJ's drawing. In fact they overlapped so I had to make some room. I had some black 'semi flexible' pipe hanging around so I used that, I've used it before on sprinklers and its been ok so hopefully it will work ok for this.
Thanks all.
So IMO that is not the option I would have ever attempted, digging up more and being able to move the pipe, or valve, to allow a simple straight repair would have been the BEST option, that is a repair gone insanely wild.
Poly pipe is not intended to be welded. Maybe it will hold, maybe not!
As already stated the black poly is not supposed to be welded.
I would redo the fix using all PVC. We all use the term “gluing PVC” but technically you are using a solvent to cause the molecules on both pieces to fuse together and make a really strong joint. I think it is claimed that the joint is as strong as the pipe itself.
I have used that flex pipe over the years on at least two sprinkler repairs and they have held up so far. I could not envisage trying to relocate either the T piece end or the valve itself, that would mean disturbing piping that was working fine. Pete's idea was obviously the best, but there was no room to connect the elbows (item 2 in the dwg). The elbows actually overlapped. I think it will be ok, time will tell.
I didn't realize there was so little room there. You could have used one street elbow and one standard elbow in location 2 and then two short pieces of pipe to connect the #2's to the #1's.
So I got a new kitchen sink, and I'm going to be replumbing the drain pipes, and while I was down there I noticed my hot water line is all corroded. Especially the T that goes off to my dishwasher. I'd like to replace both that T, and the valves that go to my sink and dishwasher. However, as you can see in the picture, the water line coming up from under the cabinet doesn't have much pipe to work with. If I cut that pipe off below the fitting, I won't really be able to get another fitting in there.
I haven't done much plumbing at all, but am pretty handy in most other areas, so I figured I could handle this. But not sure. I was just going to use sharkbite push fittings for this, but now I'm not sure.
Any tips on how to go about this?
[img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20211214_225419_7c63f08f9f64b7c548d39aa6e8c95de9a63fce3d.jpg[/img]
[i]The line going up goes to the faucet, the one to the left goes to the dishwasher. [/i]
12-08-21, 02:10 PM
