Help - 1/4 turn shut off valve behind clothes washer machine
Cold water valve is still let water out after closing it. Does this valve come of by turning on the thread while hold down the nut on top of the PVC pipe? I can't find exactly identical looking valve. Will I be able to replace with https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...10EB/205821814 ? Your helps are very much appreciated. Thanks.
I'd suggest you just keep working the valve back and forth, on and off. Eventually you will probably get it to shut off completely. If they aren't turned often, they get gunked up.
It's also possible that the valve IS shut off, and you are just feeling the pressure of the water that is remaining in the hose. Some water is going to come out even after you shut it off. It will squirt when you loosen the hose. So you will need some towels until you relieve the pressure and drain the hoses. But if it keeps squirting... then it might not be fully shut off.
It kind of looks like an Oatey washer box. Pretty common, still sold in stores. Hard to say what kind of pipe is under it... maybe watch a video to learn more about it.
It sure looks like you would need to shut your main water valve off at the meter. Then unscrew the hoses. Put one wrench on the nut and hold it stationary while you turn the valve loose with another wrench.
I tried turning the valve on and off, and after turning it off more than an hour, water is still flowing out small but surely. I'm getting a new washer machine delivered and hooked up later today so I may get a chance to find a compatible valve and replace it. What happens if I just hooked up a new washer without replacing the bad valve? Most people just keep the valve turned on all the time if it's connected to the washer. I believe there's a water flowstopping mechanism in most washer machines if I'm not mistaken?
Water is still coming out of the cold hose this morning, but I think it's much less than last night. At first, I thought it has stopped after I further kept turning on and off that 1/4 turn handle so I may further try turn on and off. I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the valve.
Now the installer of the new washer is suppose to use nylon braided inlet hoses. Is this a good choice for safety?
We had rubber inlet hoses to a kenmore washer with valve turned on for 17+ years 24/7/365, and had no rupture. I suspect older style hoses and washers may be better made than the modern ones?
If the same set of washing machine hoses lasted 17+ years and the water was left turned on continuously then you were not unlucky. If the hoses felt unusually hard or stiff when you finally removed them then they were on borrowed time.
A quick way to depressurize the hoses after the shutoffs are closed is to start the machine at the beginning of its cycle and, after a few seconds, stop the cycle.In almost all cases a new wash cycle can be started for real by turning on the machine again and not having to turn the dial all the way around to the start position again.
Going forward, I agree that the valve should be turned off after washing clothes. For now, I further played with the valve turning it on/off, and it seems like sometime water is coming out more and sometimes less. I removed the edge frame on the valve box, and it does look like pipe underneath is CPVC. Pipes coming out of wall in my kitchen or bathroom are all CPVC so I think it would be safe to say CPVC. So I'm told the valve is compression type of valve, but I just don't know what would be the compatible ones at Home Depot. Any recommendation for replacement valve? Link will be appreciated?
Hi,
I have a 500 gallon in ground propane tank. How do you free the system of air after the line was tapped into to supply a dual fuel portable generator so that indoor gas appliances like a stove for example will have LP to use as opposed to air?
Thanks.
Our home was built 3 years ago. I live in Minnesota and it's been -10 or so the last few days. I've noticed some moisture/standing water in our basement around where the PVC pipe runs into the concrete. This is right where the washer standpipe is. It runs up and vents out the side of the house one way and the other side goes up and comes back down into the concrete slab a few feet away. Any idea what may be causing this? Never noticed it before and not sure if it's related to the extreme cold. As you can see from the picture, this area is roughly 42" below ground.
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