Anyone know what I'm getting into here with the roof?
I'm trying to access a leak I can't shrink down in size to get to from the attic. I tried. I made it like 3 feet away but right up in there is tight. I know at least it's leaking on the outside mostly but it does make it inside. I'm hoping under the soffit here I can access it but just wanted to get any tips from anyone who's ever taken these apart or out them together. The front panels seem to hold them in with a couple nails here and there only I hope. I'm worried there might be more extensive disassembly involved.
Don't quite understand what your trying to do. If you have a roof leak it's fixed from the top. There isn't much point in disassembling everything underneath.
It appears to be aluminum. The fascia needs to come off, then you can pull or cut the soffit fasteners in front. The individual pieces of soffit will then pull straight out IF they were not fastened anywhere other than the front edge. Still, don't know what the point of doing any of that would be.
Patch? I'm not sure what you mean. I plan on cutting out the piece with the leak and replacing it
And actually it's where I suspected it is right at the bend which I plan to replace with a L joint.
Don't know if it's standard to bend these pipes around but so far this would be the second leak at a bend I'm fixing.
It's the old Pex, the stuff you're supposed to replace. Poly something. Grey stuff. I plan on replacing it incrementally section by section when I have time.
Oh sorry. I see the confusion you all were having lol.
Sorry. Not a ROOF leak. Now ya get me? And it's right at the absolute worst part of the system. Well I suppose anywhere where it's right behind the walls not in the attic. I guess plumbers are good at replacing drywall
And I put it in the roof category cuz I'm dealing with roof issues specifically, accessing through the roof.
I've replaced sections of that type of pipe before. The big box store should have all the parts you'll need, just need to make sure you get the right size. I often cut off the water and bring a piece with me to insure I get the right size.
I don't remember, while I've made these types of repairs maybe a dozen times they were often a yr or two apart. Last time was on my stepson's mobile home and it was just a straight shot. Not much room to work so I used a sharkbite connector.
That's polybutylene, not pex. Pex is probably what you should use to replace it (and soon). Polybutylene was used extensively in mobile home construction and has been the basis fo a class action lawsuit.
If you have decent access to work, a sharkbite couple would work but you should get a decent square cut and make sure you insert the tubing to the proper depth or the sharkbite will fail.
There is a tape wrap that might suffice until you are able to replace the line. I'd plan on replacing that stuff soon. Yes, a pretty big job and wall tear-out and replacement a big part of it.
Thinking about getting a sewer jet kit for my pressure washer. It's a Craftsman, 2700 psi, 2.3 gpm. There's lots of options, but would you go with a 1/8" hose or 1/4"? The drain pipe giving me issues is 1.5" in a kitchen. I'm thinking the 1/8" would go in easier, but would that smaller size cause issues with my pressure washer? The hose on the pressure washer and gun is 1/4. Thanks a lot.
Hi, I am trying to loosen the hose nut in my yard after four months by my wrench but it not rotating. If I try force too much by my wrench, then the pipe coming from the ground starts moving and I do not want to break those. I have highlighted the hose nut with red in picture. Any tricks to loosen or soften that?
Thanks in advance
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