I'm tackling a drainpipe leak in my crawl space and could use some guidance please!

Attached are pictures of the area from several angles. The leak is in the 1.5" just below the copper Y.

I don't know if it's just a failed solder, or copper that needs replacing. Everything in this house seems to have been done poorly originally (1978 build), so I'm inclined to assume both.

The copper above the Y goes through a concrete block wall, so I don't really have more than a 1/2" wiggle room at best to fit pipes together. Honestly since the Y is connected to a toilet directly above, there may be absolutely no wiggle room.

I'm assuming I need to replace everything from the threaded copper going into the cast iron up to the bottom side of the Y. But with so little wiggle room - how??

Thank you! Looking forward to the commentary on the work. Not my handiwork, so you won't hurt my feelings! ;-)

 

I take back what I said about the toilet...that's the 2" next to it. The 1.5" above the Y is going to a lav. So I *may* get that 1/2" of play, but that would be the most due to the concrete block wall

 

Those are some pretty gnarly looking solder joints. Not professional.

As a DIYer, and not a plumber, I would try to see if I could heat up the leaking joint enough to get more solder into it. A drain pipe should not have standing water in it so you should be able to heat it up enough. If that did not work I would look into a rubber sleeve (like a Fernco) clamped over the joint since the water in the drain pipe is not under pressure.

Experts and others who worry about codes and inspections may disagree with these suggestions. I expect they will chime in.

If you are really into making a project of it you would cut the pipe below the leak, sweat out the leaking part, and remake the entire section back to the connection into the cast iron hub. Using PVC might be an easier material to use for that. (Or cut above the leak and avoid removal by sweating.)

 

I have not done work on copper pipe that size so I don't know if your usual propane torch has enough power and I doubt MAPP gas will be enough. You might need a larger torch or a helper with another torch to put heat in fast enough to get the whole joint molten.

Also, make sure the pipes are well supported. When the solder melts all strength in the joint will be gone and you don't want it to fall apart which often throws little blobs of molten solder around. Safety glasses and long sleeves are a good idea.

 

I didn't realize 1.5" would present a challenge for a DIY propane torch - I did some googling and see that may be an issue.

Let's say I cut the bunch of elbows somewhere in the middle, twist the lower fitting out of the cast iron, heat the bottom of the Y to release the solder to remove the elbow mess. Then I work from the cast iron up with PVC. When I get to the Y fitting, can you reasonably connect the PVC to the Y with a Fernco adapter? I realize that may not be nearly the best way, but it avoids a solder joint that I am concerned I can't make. Even if I wanted to rent an acetylene torch, where this is in a crawl space, positioning the needed equipment would be painful.

 

I think this is the Fernco you need.

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" ProFlex Coupling (Cast Iron, PVC, Steel to Copper)

You should confirm that it is for pipe-to-pipe and not hub to pipe. Cut the joint at the elbow below the "Y" leaving the copper stub for the Fernco copper connection and continue with PVC downstream to the CI. No flame required.

You could do the same above the 45 elbow at the CI if you do not want to mess with remaking the entry to the CI hub.

 

I appreciate the suggestions. I think I need to get in there one more time before buying the parts necessary, as I'm not completely certain that the leak is not in the solder joint entering the bottom of the Y. Assuming it's not leaking there, I like the idea of a Fernco at each end, connected by new PVC. I'm concerned the entry to the CI hub may not go smoothly, and the Ferno, though not ideal, avoids that.

 

It's not a large leak. A split rubber sleeve and a couple of clamps on it might be all you need. Should not be a code issue since the copper will be inside it for actual structure and water containment.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions so far - I am getting closer.

So, by way of update, I went back in with my damn reading glasses, and discovered that the straight copper exiting the bottom of the Y is literally perforated and leaking. So, I can't cut that piece and fernco to it directly.

I'm now thinking about cutting as close to the Y as I can, and using a fernco adapter to transition from the bottom end of the Y over to PVC, then connect back in w/a fernco adapter on the straight copper above the 45 adapter coming off the CI hub.

Any thoughts or feedback on that approach?

 

I think there is a Fernco fitting for copper hubs. It may not be the same one I referenced earlier.