Got 1 1/2" plastic (S-trap kit from HD) connected to garbage disposal, going to 1 1/4" drain pipe in floor. The transition is a rubber reducer, as shown below. The vertical pipe is slightly angled. I'd like to fix that, and get rid of the rubber reducing connector, too. Any ideas on the best approach? I don't have much drain pipe exposed to work with.
The drain pipe is 1 1/4". I'm not sure what it's made out of. Circa 1960, if that helps. I won't know until I remove the rubber reducer. I'll try and load a photo of the disposal connection shortly; it's just a black, plastic short elbow feeding right into the s-trap.
Nope, the drain pipe comes out of the concrete slab below the cabinet. There's about 2 or 3 inches of exposed pipe, I'm guessing. Here's the other end of the pipe, going into the disposal unit.
Based on the age, it's likely copper or galvanized steel. Either way, some type of rubber coupler is still probably your best bet for a good connection.
You could use a shielded no-hub coupling instead, it will be a more secure connection, but there are different sizes based on whether the pipe below is copper or steel. And in the end, it won't work any better/worse - though may look better and hold the PVC pipe better.
To straighten the pvc pipes, you'll need to rotate the disposal a bit to get the output a little closer to the drain. It'll need to be loosened from the mount above, rotated, and re-tightened. I usually loosen all the slip joint fittings but leave them in place so they can all be nicely aligned, then tighten them.
Thanks, Zorfdt. I'll give rotating the disposal unit a go. I was wondering about that rubber reducing part. Would it make sense to replace it with something like the item pictured, and then maybe use some sort of plastic reducer above it between the 1 1/2" down tube to the 1 1/4" drain pipe? Cosmetically, it would improve things, if nothing else. Thoughts? Edit: I forgot to ask what a "shielded, no hub coupling is. Is that what's in my photo? 1 1/4" connector
I think I would cut open the toe kick under the front of the cabinet to see if the pipe could be made larger after it comes up out of the slab. It shouldn't have a 1 1/2 to 1 1/4" reducer on it.
XSleeper and PjMax - that's what I was just doing! OK, so what I found was disturbing. The exposed pipe is copper, but it was so thin, part of it broke when I removed the rubber reducer. It appears to be soldered or welded to a wider piece of galvanized pipe. Real mess here. Anybody got a great fix idea, or is this beyond a DIY proper repair? This is the pipe under the cabinet, behind toe plate The brittle, thin copper drain pipe
I'd take a sawzall and fine metal blade and cut it off under the cabinet, a couple inches above the floor. Determine what size it is and put a shielded Fernco coupler on that is the same size as the pipe. Then extend that same size pipe up as high as needed, hopefully you could use 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe. Then glue a SJ adapter on top, for your slip joint fittings to go into.
Thanks for the suggestions and link, XSleeper! I might give that approach a go, providing I can squeeze my reciprocating saw into the space under the cabinet. I cleaned up and reassembled the existing setup for the time being, but I do want to improve upon it, so your (and everyone's) suggestions and help are greatly appreciated!
I'm 90% sure the pipe under the cabinet is lead. It's fine, but you need to be careful with it because it's really old, likely past it's safe lifespan, and lead is a really soft pipe. So you need to be gentle with it, especially if cutting with a sawzall. When using the shielded coupling, tighten it well, but don't over-tighten as it can deform easily.
Lastly, if it is lead, be careful with snaking it. A hand snake would be fine, but a power snake can tear through an old lead pipe. Ask me how I know....
Zorfdt - thanks a heap for that great info and warning about working with the lead pipe. That pipe is a real CF, with the copper soldered to the wider pipe, and then another connection just below it, to the main piece of pipe, which is flared, as the photo shows. I will definitely proceed with caution.
I'm guessing I can figure out how you discovered what not to do with lead pipe. I actually snaked out the DWV pipe from the bathroom last year, up on the roof. Fortunately, I used a manual snake. Phew! Anyhow, thanks again for the help and advice.
Pjmax - The only thing I've used is the stuff with the enzymes that eat the goop in your drains. Nothing caustic that would eat copper. Maybe the former owners Draino'd the heck out of it for decades - who knows? That was definitely the thinnest copper pipe I've ever laid eyes on.
A number of years ago I remodeled a mother-in-law apartment in my basement. The cold and hot lines were replaced with pex tubing. Recently the tenant told me there was a lot of intermittent 'groaning' from the pipes in the bathroom when he turns on a valve (hot or cold) or flushes the toilet. It also occurred when the washing machine was running. I assume that this is due to air in the line. The upstairs living area is served from the same lines and we are not experiencing the problem. While the tenant was out I opened all of the valves in the unit and let them run but did not hear any noises or get air coming out.
Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot and correct this?
I need some assistance and advice on opening up a wall preparing for a plumber to move a drain and 2 water lines for me. I'm not going to be doing the pipe work, too advanced for my lack of plumbing ability. That said, I am looking to cut the drywall and have the space ready for the plumber to save time and cost.
The current drain is in the wall and roughed in, and I have decided to change the location. It will need to move 5 feet, take a turn, then 7 more feet. Total of 12 feet. The plumber estimated that with the allowed drop per foot this was possible. We plan to put the drain and water lines at around 21 inches high at the location in the second photo below above the central vent on the wall in (following the red arrows).
I'd like to cut enough drywall out with a dewalt multi tool (hoping that works, never done this before) starting above the baseboard and up to a height that will work. There are 2 layers of drywall (double thick for sound insulation) and 2x6 behind.
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I do have photos of the wall opened up (during initial construction of home) as well I can share. I just misjudged where I would want my bar sink. Sadly.
I was also told I should ask for a "studor vent" due to the distance of the run, does that make sense to everyone?
I appreciate any advice, love this forum!
03-27-22, 10:16 AM
