I'm redoing my bathroom and I have a 3" copper vent stack in the way. It's in the interior wall, that is between the bathrooms. Just before the rim joists it turns into the shower 45 Degree bend then a short 6" run then another 45 bend then straight out the attic and the out the roof. The vent stack in 8" from the outside wall my attic joints are 2x6 then I have a lot 3" then 2x6 rafters. What I want to do is put the vent stack through the rim joists and then use a 90-degree bend then a short run then a 90 bend again and out the same hole in the roof, using ads pipe.
Can I use 90-degree bends in a vent stack? And can I cut or sweat the old copper pipe out. I was worried about the gases/ fumes exploding. Or I'm I over thinking it too much?
If it's just a vent (no bathroom above it), 90 degree fittings are fine.
You can absolutely cut it with a sawzall. It can be a challenge to heat that much copper without a larger torgh. There won't be any significant fumes, though if you're going to leave it open for days, I'd stuff a rag in it. But for cutting or leaving open for a few hours while you work, no problem at all.
out the same hole in the roof
You'll likely need to put a new boot to seal the pipe on the roof. Depending on how old the boot is, the rubber gets brittle and putting a new pipe through will likely cause roof leaks.
using ads pipe
I assume you mean ABS (black) pipe. ADS is for yard drainage and isn't used for indoor plumbing.
This vent stack has nothing above it. I was concerned because it vents the septic system also. That's why its a 3" stack. Others are only 1.5"
Was planning on a sawzall and sweating on a threaded end to add the new pipe too. I only have the yellow small hand torch.I have never done a pipe this big before. Will it work?
That was by other questions the boost is done, I can see out side now. same on the 1.5" copper line. Roofs only 15 years old. a new boot or some type of asphalt caulk?
I wouldn't bother trying to solder a 3" pipe. Get a shielded no-hub coupling and be done much quicker and easier - plus easy to adapt to ABS.
You'll probably have to notch that top rim plate, it's tight to get a fitting in theer and glued. So you'll need to do some planning on how to fit the pipes into that small space. I don't know if there are any structural concerns taking 3.5" out of that plate to get the pipe up through it.
Lastly, I would probably recommend a new boot. Considering you already see daylight, it's not doing what it needs. But the roofers here might have a better suggestion.
Okay got it, what is code for sticking outside of the roof? what is the distance from the fished roof to the top of the stack?
Yes it is, its a none structural wall. So it would be fine. how about who ever put the old shower in and new drain line cut out two of the joist under the shower. I have to fix that asap!!
My plan was to dry fit it all then take it part and glue it.
Ya, I looked on the roof both are done the rubbers missing and dry rutted for both copper vent stacks. I checked the other pvc schedule 40 vent stack fro the kitchen and its 100% fine and good. Could the copper be super heating the rubber and that's why they failed so soon? Should I cut the other copper stack and put in a shielded no-hub coupling and abs out the roof for that one also?
Your roof flashing appears to be toast, that type sometimes doesn't last more than 5 or 6 years. The best roof flashing is lead, but I have had very good success using an Oatey rain collar over an existing flashing. They easily slide over the vent pipe and down over the damaged plastic/rubber boot. These are a thick rubber collar that last for years. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-14...2277c8bbc3ffd3
Saw a couple of ball valves (pro flo 1515) leaking from the stem at the radiant water boiler pipes today. Thought it would be an easy fix of removing the handle and tightening the packing nut. Interestingly, there are no packing nuts to tighten.
Have tried to tighten the handle nut in increments but that doesnt seem to help. Any recommendations based on your expertise folks? Looked around the lines and have a Watts valve (which does have a packing nut) and few other pro flo ones wherein I dont see anything at the back. Don't want to open and fiddle with them as they might start leaking. Based on this observations, am thinking this should be doable and not have to replace the valves (god forbid as they are soldered on to the copper pipes).
Does adding a washer, gasket or graphite rope or something help? Any help would be tremendous as I have shut down those valves for now and essentially shut the heat down to those zones.
Thanks as always
So, remodeling our bathroom and we purchased a new vanity. What I didn't know until we got it is there is a shelf placed right where the water lines come out of the wall. I entertained the thought of cutting a section out of the shelf but upon further inspection I think that would be a bad idea as it appears it would degrade the integrity of the whole vanity if there was a large section cut out.
How difficult would it be to move the valves/piping UP a few inches in order for them to clear the shelf? Are there any other option out there besides cutting drywall and adjusting the plumbing? We do have a crawlspace so I suspect the pipes come up from below.
Thank you
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03-28-22, 12:28 PM
