We have noticed these marks developing slowly on our kitchen ceiling since we bought our house about 6 months ago but I don't know what they are. There is a toilet directly on the floor above this, but I don't know if the drainage pipes from that would run laterally through the floor or if it's leaking from the base. Anyone have ideas? The toilet regularly makes a hammering noise when we flush it, if that helps.
Last edited by PJmax; 04-08-22 at 04:10 PM.
Reason: added highlighted picture
Looks like a contaminate was on the ceiling that was not cleaned before they painted over it, and the paint didn't stick in those spots. Get up on a ladder and poke one and see if it is like a blister that you can pop and flatten back out. That will tell us more about it.
Yes, water damage. Most likely from a bad toilet flange. You might be able to get a warranty for damage. Depending on how the house was sold. Call you your home owners insurance. You might be covered. (Just a side note, never seal the floor section around a toilet, even though code requires it. If it leaks you want to be able to see it.)
Best to remove toilet, inspect the whole area around floor. If it seems like it's just wet, but not soaking or molding the wood then let it dry out completely. Be prepared to replace ceiling wallboard on room below. If you're not handy in this regard, best to call a plumber and a drywall boarder.
never seal the floor section around a toilet, even though code requires it. If it leaks you want to be able to see it
I always caulk the bottom of the commode except for the backside. That way you get the clean look and if the wax seal leaks the water will be able to go out the back. If it's sealed all the way around the leak has no where to go except into the framing and whatever is below.
Mark, I agree with you. But not all toilets are absolutely level. And if a leak occurs it may take time for the leak to appear in the back side. Besides at home, I would think people would be able to keep the floor clean enough so that dirt and crud would not accumulate at the base.
Thank you all! This is very helpful. The front and sides are caulked but I just looked and it seems that there is some rusty discoloration around the base. We should be able to have a plumber out in the next few days to confirm.
Someone must have done a paper thin repair over it just to sell it... if its drywall you shouldn't be able to just push your finger into it.... drywall is 1/2" thick and doesn't just disappear if it gets wet. Or is it plaster?
As noted drywall is typically 1/2" thick and many ceilings are 5/8" At any rate any drywall you can push a finger thru needs replacing. I would think if it was plaster it would come off in chunks. Water damage leaves brown stains but if someone primed the stains and did a superficial repair that would hide the stain. I'd plan on cuttting out and replacing all of the weak drywall.
Yeah the material seems to be paper thin. Almost cardboard-like? I know many of the walls are plaster since it's an older home but not sure about the ceiling.
How old is the house? older homes have lath, brown coat and plaster coat all added together makes it fairly thick. Newer homes [last 40 yrs or so] use a thin plaster veneer over blue board drywall. It wouldn't be uncommon for an older plaster house to be repaired with drywall. I've never seen damaged plaster that you could easily stick your finger thru.
remove the toilet and flooring around it like was stated above... some types of underlayment rot quickly. I had to replace a 4x4' section after I found a seal leak. Replace it all now and it should be good for many years. Your ceiling should also have a large area replaced, but your comments about how thin it seems causes concern. If you can't do it yourself, have a decent handyman with sheetrock experience do it, and cross your fingers that the entire ceiling is not thin fiberboard.
I cannot get the handle on this yard hydrant to budge back down, no matter how hard I push. I thought maybe some of the mechanism there might be rusted up so applied some penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, but that didn't help at all. It is stuck tight in that up/open position. We have other hydrants like this on the property but have never encountered this problem with any of those, or even this one before. Any comments/advice appreciated.
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/1zqLd2sD/20220407-081433.jpg[/img]
Long-time listener, first-time caller. I was stood up by my plumber and started thinking about doing this job myself. I have experience with plumbing but I wanted advice from the real experts before I take this on.
I'm in the process of installing a utility sink in my garage, next to my water softener. I have access to water lines and I'd like to use the drain installed for the water softener. I cut a large portion of sheetrock out for the job. I'm thinking of cutting the pipe where the pink arrow is (see pic) and installing a 90 elbow to come out of the wall. I'll route the drain from the sink directly in. Somewhere along the way from the sink to the drain, I'll install a wye like [url=https://www.supplyhouse.com/Canplas-212321W-White-PVC-Appliance-Wye-1-1-2-x-1-1-2-x-1-2-HxHxBarb?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_LPLTV&gclid=CjwKCAjwur-SBhB6EiwA5sKtjvGJMwGpPNQIFD3E0TcrToTxJy52c3Bmj1Szcfr6tj8NvTZRw5u6QBoCKZwQAvD_BwE]this one[/url] for the water softener discharge. My questions are:
1. Is there a better way or location to cut into the existing drain for the sink?
2. Am I ok using a wye, similar to one I linked for softener discharge?
3. Since I'm cutting in above an in-wall p-trap, will there be any issue installing another p-trap below the utility sink?
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1116x1436/screen_shot_2022_04_08_at_7_47_54_am_487285ad1d2164490500d6e68a62e0ca7a5e7d3a.png[/img]
04-08-22, 04:02 PM
