So, remodeling our bathroom and we purchased a new vanity. What I didn't know until we got it is there is a shelf placed right where the water lines come out of the wall. I entertained the thought of cutting a section out of the shelf but upon further inspection I think that would be a bad idea as it appears it would degrade the integrity of the whole vanity if there was a large section cut out.
How difficult would it be to move the valves/piping UP a few inches in order for them to clear the shelf? Are there any other option out there besides cutting drywall and adjusting the plumbing? We do have a crawlspace so I suspect the pipes come up from below.
Cutting the shelf would be the easiest. You could get away with cutting out 3 or 4" in the middle. And, it looks like you're going to have to cut the shelf open anyhow to make room for the P trap.
Moving the supply lines isn't a bad job. It's just going to take a small amount of different materials and you'll empty half your tool box for a small job (joking). Cut out an access opening in the sheetrock. I would do a big area so you have plenty of room to work easily. Turn off the water and open a faucet to relieve the pressure. Once you have the wall open you'll be able to see how your water lines run and can determine what you need to do to lower them. You might get away with simply cutting the pipe and soldering your oid elbow and horizontal on top or at the worst you might need some elbow fittings and some pipe. Then do the sheetrock repair.
It's not uncommon to cut out sections of vanity shelf to make way for the plumbing. I've done it on several occasions. Or remove shelf altogether and move it up or down.
Under shelf Under shelf
Well the vanity had to be ordered special cause the Mrs. Wanted the blue with brass fittings. Additionally, it came fully assembled and is pretty solid. Looking under that shelf it looks very well attached. I worry that if I cut out a section on the back side a lot of it would fall off.
if I notch out the shelf in these areas wouldn't the integrity of the entire shelf be affected? I would have to cut out part of that cross member completely as well in 2 places. The p trap is above it so a small hole in the shelf itself would suffice to relieve stress but the water taps are exactly at the level of the shelf and cross beam.
You'll need to do a bit of carpentry.
Sort of what I drew here. Cut the vertical post to accommodate your pipe or valves. But then support those cut pieces with cross members. Do both sides with either the yellow or red. Doesn't need to be what I drew but similar.
Edit...Or better still just replace the vertical piece with another only move it over.
I'm redoing my bathroom and I have a 3" copper vent stack in the way. It's in the interior wall, that is between the bathrooms. Just before the rim joists it turns into the shower 45 Degree bend then a short 6" run then another 45 bend then straight out the attic and the out the roof. The vent stack in 8" from the outside wall my attic joints are 2x6 then I have a lot 3" then 2x6 rafters. What I want to do is put the vent stack through the rim joists and then use a 90-degree bend then a short run then a 90 bend again and out the same hole in the roof, using ads pipe.
Can I use 90-degree bends in a vent stack? And can I cut or sweat the old copper pipe out. I was worried about the gases/ fumes exploding. Or I'm I over thinking it too much?
Thanks
mike
I have a 1970's vintage Nibco hose bib/silcock that is leaking and doesn't want to come apart. The tag says it's a model figure 52 but the handwheel is different. I have removed the handwheel, removed the "gland nut" and thought the stem assembly should slide out. I've turned the handwheel to both the fully open and fully closed position without any luck. This valve hasn't ever been worked on since it was installed and my thought is that the stem etc. is likely rusted in place. Before I start tapping on the handle or maybe heating the valve body up are there any tricks or ideas I could try? Thanks, Bob