I can not get this washing machine hose removed from the hot water line. It is seized tight & won't budge. It is recessed in a plastic box so it is very hard to get a good grip on the threaded end of the hose. I have sprayed some W40 on it but I am coming at it from the front so am not sure if the W40 is seeping through the treads. I would appreciate any tips that might loosen the threads up? Thanks
Yes I tried getting as good a grip as I could with channel locks but no luck there. Because the thing is recessed into the wall & surrounded in this plastic box it is very hard to get a good grip & there is very little room to get the channel lock in.
Usually, heavy duty aluminum foil around the hose and plastic to protect them, then use a propane torch to heat the flange and force it to expand. Then douse with ice cubes to force it to shrink.
Next, try TIGHTENING it to break it loose, THEN try loosening it.
If that doesn't work, I have occasionally added a good quality hose-clamp to the garden hose thread, both to protect the threads, and to create a 'lug' or protrusion for the vise-grips to grab.
Thanks Pjmax I did have a channel lock plier to try to loosen it but it is almost impossible to get a good grip because of the way the pipe is recessed into the wall.
Channel locks come in different sizes, maybe a different size will work. I assume it won't take much, just getting it broke loose. Not sure why a configuration like that was used and it won't be easy but trying various positions/pliers should bring a solution. Maybe visegrips.
Tighten a hose calm onto it.
Position it so the tightener can rotate some counterclockwise.
Then hit it in that direction with a hammer or a screwdriver and hammer etc.
Soak with penetrating oil
1) Small vice grips - then tap on the grips with a hammer.
2) On the left use a hacksaw blade an score an edge. Tap downward with a chisel/screwdriver and hammer.
3) Break the inside out and try to peal it off.
[QUOTE=manden]Tighten a hose {clamp} onto it.[/QUOTE]
It's worth the low cost to get a set of off-set or 'sideways' screw drivers- they come in handy.
[QUOTE=manden]Position it so the tightener can rotate some counterclockwise.[/QUOTE]
As was discussed somewhere else, for various reasons, it does seem that hoses and bolts are easier to loosen if you first TIGHTEN them a tiny bit. So I'd try clockwise first, (hope you feel a "click" or just a slight movement) THEN flip the wrench and try to loosen it.
Some suggestions that have worked for me in the past:
Find a piece of thick scrap rubber (or even layers of cardboard/cloth) that you don't mind damaging and wrap it around the end to protect from tool bite for any of the above suggestions or anything I suggest.
This is a redneck approach that has worked for me many times both as a civilian and while serving in the Navy. Get an old t-shirt that hasn't yet developed wear holes (be prepared to throw this out when done). Find a 1/4 inch (or slightly thicker) piece of metal between 3 to 6 inches like a cotter pin, interchangeable screwdriver shaft (with handle removed), or barn nail (don't use sharp things to avoid cutting shirt or hands). You need a screwdriver if the metal chunk has a very short size. Cut the t-shirt into strips of 2 to 4 inches wide and (this is guesswork) at least as long as needed to wrap around fitting plus 12 inches and a few extra inches to tie a knot. You should end up with shirt chunks that form a circle with the knot included. Get the shirt wet with tap water, but wring it out so its not dripping wet before beginning. Take the shirt circle and put the metal chunk through the shirt circle hole and hold this with one hand. Use the other hand to wrap the shirt around the plumbing piece you're trying to loosen and put the metal piece through the loop of the other shirt end. The pipe fitting should now be cradled by the shirt. Begin twisting the shirt piece around the pipe fitting until extremely snug, but be careful not to crush the fitting under extreme compression. Congrats! You now have a redneck strap wrench. You can use your hands + shirt knot + metal piece to now have mechanical advantage you didn't have before to loosen the fitting. If the shirt is slipping you can apply rubber scraps like from an old inner tube to get better grip. Hopefully this all makes sense. I can assemble a demo over some days if needed if this description is confusing.
Last edited by Sn3akyP3t3; 04-24-22 at 03:37 PM.
Reason: Forum wasn't honoring bullet list items so put spaces between to keep it clean
I have a 1970's vintage Nibco hose bib/silcock that is leaking and doesn't want to come apart. The tag says it's a model figure 52 but the handwheel is different. I have removed the handwheel, removed the "gland nut" and thought the stem assembly should slide out. I've turned the handwheel to both the fully open and fully closed position without any luck. This valve hasn't ever been worked on since it was installed and my thought is that the stem etc. is likely rusted in place. Before I start tapping on the handle or maybe heating the valve body up are there any tricks or ideas I could try? Thanks, Bob
My 50 year old pipe developed a pinhole leak behind the cabinet inside the wall under my sink. I didn't know about it being so hidden because we later discovered that the leak was going UNDER the cabinet and tiles so the cabinet itself wasn't wet. I only found out when the water came up through the grout and when I went down to the basement, I found a slow drip down from the ceiling. I immediately called a plumber and had the pipes replaced. But my insurance company said I should have known and won't pay for replacing the cabinets (which had to be drilled through) and the damaged tiling.
How would I know? I"d appreciate your thoughts on this. Thank.
04-22-22, 12:32 PM
