Can I install fittings on this pipe with a propane torch
I need to cut this pipe at the red circle and solder in a water filter. The pipe is pretty stout although I don't have an actual measure of the sidewall, it doesn't flex at all. My father in law who is pretty handy told me that the fittings on their currently were done with an ox-acetylene torch and a high silver solder. I just have a propane torch is that good enough to solder on some fittings. We don't get earthquakes, nobody is going to bump into it, I don't care if its not as strong as the other joints as long as it doesn't leak.
I would not install the filter there. You should mount the filter vertically. I would cut into the vertical part of the pipe after the shutoff valve (does it work???) then install piping to route to your filter mounted vertically to the wall.
If you don't mount the filter vertically changing filters is a major mess. If mounted vertically you simply unscrew the housing and only a small amount of water spills out. If mounted horizontally or upside down then then whole filter housing will dump when you unscrew it. Worst is that the dirt and sediment will also spill out making a mess.
Good point regarding location, depends on the type of filter being installed. A whole house type filer would need to be horizontal with room for housing removal, dont want to remove that in a vertical position.
Standard plumbing solder (lead free) is acceptable and will provide a strong enough joint. For residential plumbing, failed joints have nothing to do with the solder, but the preparation. A half-decent solder joint should last 50-100 years without a problem.
There are probably industrial systems that require stronger joints or specially formulated solder, but certainly not worth the time/hassle for standard plumbing.
The plastic T section where the spigot screws in is broken. Any ideas how to replace it without dismantling the whole system? The right side goes into the house and left side down into the ground to sprinkler system.
I was thinking of cutting both vertical pipes below the T section, removing equal parts and gluing back with connection sleeves and new spigot connection. Just thought I will check here in case I am missing something obvious.
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The old ball valve on my irrigation feed was corroded and no longer worked, so I cut the pipe that is embedded in the ground and runs to the solenoids about 15 feet away and thought I would just pop it back together with a union afterwards. What I [b]didn't [/b]consider was that both ends of the pipe are fixed - one in the wall and one in the ground, and I have limited options for a union placement. I got to this point (see pics) and realized that I would have to tighten the leg with the union in (screwed into the ball valve) and have it probably more precise than I think I can easily do in order to have it fit. I only have about a 1/4 of play in the pipe coming up from the ground. Currently, all the fittings are screwed - except the new union I am considering.
However, I just read a recent previous post where someone was warning about PVC unions, so that also added to my concern about my current plan. Thoughts much appreciated!
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05-09-22, 09:30 PM
