Had to remove 1978 shower arm. Was leary but did it anyway, and broke it off with half of the old arm threads still in pipe. Pics attached.
Shower is newly restored ceramic. Don’t want to damage it. Shower arm plumbing is in exterior wall. Wall is brick veneer. Need to figure out how to remove the broken off piece. Have sprayed it with PB penetrant for now.
The nipple extractor will back it right out if you use it with an impact driver and a socket, on reverse. And won't ruin the threads. You have to push in hard on the impact driver for it to bite and back it out.
There are two ways to remove the broken piece. Once is to use an extractor tool.
The other method is to make a small slice in the pipe and peel it out. one method
The nipple extractor will back it right out if you use it with an impact driver and a socket, on reverse. And won't ruin the threads. You have to push in hard on the impact driver for it to bite and back it out.
It's tough because as you try to expand something inside the pipe it can expand just enough so that it won't come loose. I thought most of those arms were brass.
Your best bet is a close cut hack saw. You need to slice the pipe until just before the threads and then peel it out. I know.... easier said than done.
I don't quite understand this. Shank is too short? It's either the right size or it isn't. Nipple extractor come in different sizes (diameters) You should be using the 1/2" nipple extractor... on an impact drill... with a socket adapter... and a socket on the end of the nipple extractor. The impact drill gets set on reverse, so that when it bites, it backs it out.
If you push hard enough, it will bite. If it doesn't bite, you aren't pushing hard enough.
I understand that too. My remover (actually a BOLT remover) is not long enough to reach the broken off pipe piece (the remover bolt head is too big to fit into the wall hole and, for now, I don't want to attempt to enlarge the hole in my brand new ceramic), so there is no point in putting a socket on it.
Had this occur years ago. Was told to use a ******* file inserted into the end of the remaining broken threads. Tap with a hammer so file edges will bite into the broken shower arm, then back out by using a crescent wrench on the file. Couldn’t believe how simple and quickly it worked. The ******* file metal is hard and edges are sharp it is slightly tapered so fit into the broken piece and locked into it easily with the hammer taps. Not the most sophisticated but cheap and effective.
The missing word is the name of the file. Also a swear word for a fatherless child. Not meant as a slight.
Last edited by jeweler; 05-25-22 at 05:42 AM.
Reason: Explain ***
SUCCESS!
Took less that one minute to remove broken pipe with this tool. Insert, tap a few times, unscrew.
Worked first try. Thanks to all for your help.
Installing a new tub drain that comes with a rubber seal underneath it but not sure if I should place a line of plumbers putty between that and the tub surface. Would it hurt at all? I got this drain from Amazon and the instructions said to use plumbers putty but not sure if that's the correct advice. See attached photo.
Thanks!
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Temperature went up to the 60's and plants needed water. Exterior wall hose bib (Arrowhead frost proof type) was opened with the 4 way splitter closed. I could hear water flowing. What's going on? Soon I saw water coming out of the weep holes.
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I went inside and opened the drywall. A connector was sitting behind a 2x4 cross.
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I put fingers around the connector but the connector and the fiberglass insulation were dry. Just no sign of wetness from this end.
I suppose the leak is somewhere on the long pipe of this frost free faucet and the remedy is to replace the whole faucet, not just the stem. As far as I could tell, the connection is threaded 3/4". I could not see individual threads but definitely not sweated. Am I in the right path? Thank you.
05-23-22, 02:12 PM
