Repair copper supply line


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Old 05-27-22, 01:27 PM
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Repair copper supply line

Have a house for sale with a leaking copper pipe - I believe it's a toilet supply line, if that matters. Appears to be a very small leak but, since they don't get better, I'm trying to see if it can be fixed without another $400+ plumber visit.

Yes, I hate working on plumbing but at least this is supply side....

What I'm wondering is if there's a way to cut out the section of copper which is leaking and replace it with PEX, as I am not able to solder any new copper joints. Is that what a Sharkbite fitting is for?
 
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Old 05-27-22, 01:33 PM
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I think so. Sharkbites will connect to several different types of pipe. It should say on the label if it will work for what you need.

About the only thing I dislike more than plumbing is paying a plumber
 
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Old 05-27-22, 01:43 PM
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It sounds like you are not the one actually performing the work. Have you seen or located the leak? How much access do you have? Are you able to move the pipes to install fittings?
 
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Old 05-27-22, 02:52 PM
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Post a picture of the leak.

You can buy a a mini pipe cutter and the necessary parts at any big box store for probably less that $20. Minimum skills required to cut out the leaking culprit and replace with Shark Bite connections.
 
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Old 05-27-22, 08:08 PM
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Yes, I can access the pipe and can see the spot where the leak is - between floor joists from below. Additionally, cutting copper is not an issue, I'm just not familiar enough with running plumbing supply lines to know what the fix was off the top of my head. I suppose the next step would be measuring the OD of the existing copper to get the proper size PEX and Sharkbites?
 
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Old 05-28-22, 02:15 AM
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It should be either 1/2" or 3/4". If not mistaken all the commode supply lines I've worked on have been 1/2"
 
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Old 05-28-22, 04:28 AM
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The hard part will be getting enough movement in the pipes to allow you to get a repair fitting (coupling) in place.
 
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Old 06-08-22, 11:23 AM
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If it's just going to the toilet, it's most likely 1/2" pipe.

Cut the pipe, add a Sharkbite coupler to get to the right location and then a 90-degree SharkBite to go up through the floor. Then add a Sharkbite 3/8" valve to connect to the toilet hose. (you may have to adjust based on whether the pipe goes up through the floor or through the wall... but the concept is similar.

I would probably stick with copper pipe and SharkBite connectors, since they will be a bit more rigid and easy to work with. But PEX would be acceptable as well.

My biggest suggestion when working with push-fit connectors is to mark the pipe at 1". Deburr the pipe, and ensure its pushed in far enough to get to the mark (for 1/2" pipe, it'll be right at the 1" mark, 3/4" pipe is just over the mark). The biggest 'issue' with push-fit connectors is leaks because they weren't pushed in far enough!
 
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Old 06-08-22, 12:33 PM
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Why can't you try soldering to stop the leak first?
 
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Old 06-08-22, 04:11 PM
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Soldering is not in my skill set nor do I feel like I can get all of the water out of the pipe to make that a viable option in the first place.
 
  #11  
Old 06-08-22, 04:46 PM
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Mixing copper and pex is doable. But it looks like hell.
Stick, my suggestion is try practicing with a few pieces of copper and some fittings. All you need is propane or MAPP gas torch. It's actaully easy. Sure your first few tries maybe messy but not being messy is not the goal. Sealing a leak is.
 
 

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