Gas Line for Pool Heater
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Gas Line for Pool Heater
Hello All....new member here.
I recently ran a gas line from my house to a new pool heater (about 75ish feet), I was able to tap into the line that was outside the house. Initially I had the shut off valve by the heater (as I figured all the other appliances in my house have the shut off valve at the end of the line by the appliance). After some issues with getting it inspected, the inspector told me it would be better to put the shut off valve at the beginning of the line to make it easier to pressure test only the new line and not have to pressure test all the gas line. In house gas lines are running to the furnace, hot water heater, dryer (stove is electric). I closed all the valves inside and at the meter before I pressure tested (did the pressure testing a few times), not able to find any leaks, but it does lose pressure, could this be due to pressure testing the whole system and I only need to pressure test the new line? Is it usually best practice to put the shut off valve at the beginning?
I recently ran a gas line from my house to a new pool heater (about 75ish feet), I was able to tap into the line that was outside the house. Initially I had the shut off valve by the heater (as I figured all the other appliances in my house have the shut off valve at the end of the line by the appliance). After some issues with getting it inspected, the inspector told me it would be better to put the shut off valve at the beginning of the line to make it easier to pressure test only the new line and not have to pressure test all the gas line. In house gas lines are running to the furnace, hot water heater, dryer (stove is electric). I closed all the valves inside and at the meter before I pressure tested (did the pressure testing a few times), not able to find any leaks, but it does lose pressure, could this be due to pressure testing the whole system and I only need to pressure test the new line? Is it usually best practice to put the shut off valve at the beginning?
#2
Group Moderator
First, make sure your pressure drop is not due to temperature. The easiest way around this is to note the temperature when you fill the lines and read the gauge. Then, the next day wait until the temperature is the same before checking the gauge.
I recently added a gas line for a standby generator. I installed a shutoff at both ends of the line to make pressure testing easier, and I didn't want to be without hot water while waiting for an inspection.
I recently added a gas line for a standby generator. I installed a shutoff at both ends of the line to make pressure testing easier, and I didn't want to be without hot water while waiting for an inspection.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Pilot Dane....thank you for the reply! One of my other friends mentioned to have two shut off valves on the line, I kinda felt like that was redundant but it seems like the is the way to go.
#4
Group Moderator
It is redundant. The only reason to do it is for inspection. With new construction and the house isn't in use you don't need to but if the house is in use you have to turn off the gas to everything in order to test.
Zorfdt
voted this post useful.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
So I have all my pipe ran (yellow flex pipe underground about 60ish feet) couplers to connect to the 90 degree bends, both sides have a shut off valve. I have pressure tested the system and it keeps losing pressure. I have used bubbles, and soap and water or every joint and union and do not see any leaks. However, when there is still some air in the system and I release it I smell gas. I tried to tighten the nut on the shut off valve in case that was leaking but still having issues. I assume smelling gas from releasing the air is not good, thinking that 1st shut off valve might be bad.
#6
If you suspect a bad valve.... change it. There shouldn't be any gas leaking into the line.
There are only a few parts involved here.
It shouldn't be too hard to find the leak if it's going down fast.
There are only a few parts involved here.
It shouldn't be too hard to find the leak if it's going down fast.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Finally found my issue, the poly couplings for the underground line must have came loose a bit (even though I bubble tested them, it showed no leak). So I had to change a few things in my connection to the main line but everything is snug as a rug and pressure testing the line is great now. I did put the psi to 15 at around 230p yesterday and no pressure loss during the 8 hours that I checked it. I did check it again this morning and it was at 11psi, can I chalk the loss in pressure due to temp drop and it should come back up to 15 later in the day? Should I fill the pressure back to 15 this morning?
#8
No drop in 8 hours looks promising.
As the temperature goes down... so will the pressure.
I wouldn't any more air.... just check after it warms back up.
As the temperature goes down... so will the pressure.
I wouldn't any more air.... just check after it warms back up.
ABuehn
voted this post useful.