Why are you wanting to vent out a side wall? Most go vertically through the roof. You can go out the side, and it's often done when retrofitting old homes, but you have to turn vertical outside and run the vent up above the roof (ugly).
We don't know where you are located so check your codes. "...vent pipes should extend to outdoors above the building roof and should terminate vertically not less than 6" above the roof surface (nor more than 24") and must be at least 12" from any vertical surface."
In some cases you can vent out a side wall but it may be required to be above the highest windows in the house and may also require the end of the vent to be a certain distance away from the house.
The length of your red line should not be a problem. It will be difficult to run the piping though because you probably have no height in your attic along that wall. And you really don't want to bore holes that big in every load bearing joist along the outer wall.
Will you be going vertical with the vents at each fixture until up in the attic, then going horizontal (with proper fall) and combining in the attic? If so, that is OK.
It’s a metal building frame, so not much is actually load bearing. I do have access to run my vent pipe between the top of that back wall and the steel framing. I will be coming straight up from each orange and blue dot (except kitchen sink with window). I’d like each vent to connect to the main pipe running along the joists above and through the attic to outside. Could this work?
Yes, that sounds doable. The good thing is that once in the attic you no longer have to follow the walls or make 90°s. You can diagonal which will help keep the vent lines shorter. And don't forget to properly support the vent piping in the attic so it doesn't sag over the years.
Thanks Pilot Dane. Yeah I can shorten it some in the attic. I plan on using some strapping to help support the venting. My concern was this 40’ portion in the IPC code and if I’d have to go up from a 2” vent. The sizing chart shows max length according to my DFU should be around 125 ft. Is this considered a different type of vent?
You need a main stack vent, which will be 3" or 4". Likely from the bathroom group, but could be closer to the main drain exit if that's easier.
2" is minimum for the bathroom group, and 1.5" is sufficient for the kitchen/laundry. For 2 full baths, you might need to upgrade to 3" based on DFUs (I haven't done the math).
As you pointed out, over 40' will need to go up a size. So it looks like the kitchen/laundry will need 2"
And I'd probably run 1 bath with 3" and the other bath with 2, tying into the 3".
I need to bring the vent for this kitchen sink to the right of this window. All my vents are 2”, but I could reduce down this portion to pass through the 2x4 studs or there is a 8” metal purlin directly behind the 4 studs on the right that I may be able to drill through. Should I drill/notch all the studs or try going through the purlin? Any suggestions?
code is IPC.
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Have a house for sale with a leaking copper pipe - I believe it's a toilet supply line, if that matters. Appears to be a very small leak but, since they don't get better, I'm trying to see if it can be fixed without another $400+ plumber visit.
Yes, I hate working on plumbing but at least this is supply side....
What I'm wondering is if there's a way to cut out the section of copper which is leaking and replace it with PEX, as I am not able to solder any new copper joints. Is that what a Sharkbite fitting is for?
06-02-22, 11:23 AM
