Hello, I found today that my outdoor faucet is leaking at the stem. Seems like if I tighten it too much when turning off the water, it leaks. What is the fix for this? Replace, or rebuild? Thanks.
Your description points to two different areas. If it is leaking around the stem tighten the packing nut. That is the hex right underneath the knob. You may feel that turning the knob gets a bit more difficult. That is the packing being pressed tight against the shaft to stop the water. It's a balancing act between loose enough to easily turn the knob but tight enough to keep the water from leaking.
What do you mean "...if I tighten it too much when turning off the water, it leaks."? Does water continue to come out of the faucet when you have the faucet closed?
Water was leaking out the stem I did tighten that not a little bit that goes around the stem actually seemed very loose seems to have stopped for now we will see. I will keep an eye on it for a few days
If the leak returns you might need to replace the packing or add some new. Some faucets have a rubber washer while others use a Teflon like material. Both are really inexpensive and easy to install when the time comes.
Doesn't matter. Replace the stem packing/ washer with either graphite or Teflon string sold at all hardware or home improvement stores. And replace the washer at the stem bottom at the same time.
Now, it doesn't leak at the stem anymore, but doesn't shut off all the way. I disconnected the hose an the is a small leak. I backed the nut off a little, it did not stop. The stem leaked though.
I am wondering if i damaged the washer when i tightened the packing nut? Are the washers universal? How about the packing? This will be a job for next weekend.
No, washers are not universal. Take the stem with you when you go to the hardwear store and try to get the bevel style (but flate will do fine). The sizes run from 00 to 3/8 and bigger. Or buy a variety pack.
Well, i bought a washer assortment, and some packing, however, when i took it apart i found the screw is broken and the washer was just sitting there inside. Can i just take this to the hardware store and get a new one? I don't want to replace the whole thing, i think i would have to cut open the ceiling in the basement to do that.
No, the part in your picture is not available as a replacement part. If you can remove the remains of the screw you can fix it. Otherwise replace the whole faucet.
That type hose bib hasn't been used in new installations in quite a few years. I replaced one a few years ago that was installed on galvanized steel pipe, did the complete replacement from the outside. It was a piece of cake. Took longer to go to Lowes and get the new one than to change it.
I'm guessing it's threaded. You should have an inside isolation valve for just that faucet. Turn it off. If it's threaded you may need two people to get it off. One person inside with a wrench to hold the pipe steady and firm, while another uses a wrench from the outside to unscrew it.
If it's soldered and so close to the siding of the house, you'll need to cut or unsolder the pipe from the inside at the isolation valve and replace or couple the pipe with an MNPT adapter and then the new valve. Then you'll want to use a threaded valve from here on in.
Edit...I assume it's copper pipe? If it's iron then it will be threaded.
I bought a whole new spigot off Amazon and took the valve assembly out of it and replaced it and seems to be working fine now. thanks to all for your input
I really want to use one, but how do you a) level the feet when there is a pan lip in front of them, and b) slide it out when you need to work on it? Especially the double ones the w/d boths it in, which look better.
Thanks!
I would like to add a hose bib for my backyard, but I don't know if there are code issues that would prevent this. I have hose access already, but it's on the other side of my house. I'm installing drip irrigation, and if I use that hookup, I would have to cross doorways with the tubing.
My water lines are accessible in my laundry room. Through the ceiling, I can access my garage attic, which then leads to the exterior wall. My current lines are copper, but my plan is to run PEX. I was thinking about using an Aquor hydrant on the exterior wall, since they're so low profile. My concern is about whether the PEX is permitted in an attic, especially being in New Jersey. I obviously would drain this during the winter months, but I don't know if that's sufficient for code purposes. My thought was to install a shutoff in the laundry room with a bleed valve. I could also open the valve on the exterior. I just wanted to see if this would be feasible or if it's something that's not worth pursuing.
06-03-22, 06:00 AM
