Hello everyone,
Here are pictures of the whole house sediment filter I will replace. Both the old one and the new one are Aqua Pure AP101T. The old one lasted 12 years, but a plastic piece inside the blue shut off at he top broke and it started leaking. (I managed to jerry rig it back together for now with krazy glue and duct tape lol, doesn't leak anymore!). Anyway, I have the new one ready to go, and thought by looking at the pics someone might have insight as to the exact process.
Thanks in advance, a great site!!!
I don't see your leak or repair. With this type of filter it puts a lot of stress on the housing when you try to unscrew the filter housing. It's especially bad in your case where you do not have a bracket supporting the filter. That puts all the strain on the plumbing fittings which can wallow them out and cause leaks. I would attach a board to the wall. Then choose a replacement filter with a mounting bracket and securely mount it to the wall so there is no strain on the plumbing fittings.
Turn off water. Put a wrench on the fitting that is screwed into the housing. Break nut loose with second wrench. Repeat on other side. Hopefully there is enough flex in that pipe to the right to pull the line out of the fittings.
I concur with PD on anchoring the housing, that is how I have mine set up (dual element type). As marq says, though, depends somewhat on replacement, but if it is same and with same size compression fittings, should be pretty straightforward.
They make bracket (link below) for that filter. I agree - you should support that filter. You can attach it to a board on the wall with that bracket.
It looks straight forward to replace that filter. I would guess you should have enough play in that vertical pipe to slip the new filter in place. But maybe others would disagree.
You loosen the big nuts to remove that filter. That is a compression connection so you need new ferrules to install the new filter.
Hello All....new member here.
I recently ran a gas line from my house to a new pool heater (about 75ish feet), I was able to tap into the line that was outside the house. Initially I had the shut off valve by the heater (as I figured all the other appliances in my house have the shut off valve at the end of the line by the appliance). After some issues with getting it inspected, the inspector told me it would be better to put the shut off valve at the beginning of the line to make it easier to pressure test only the new line and not have to pressure test all the gas line. In house gas lines are running to the furnace, hot water heater, dryer (stove is electric). I closed all the valves inside and at the meter before I pressure tested (did the pressure testing a few times), not able to find any leaks, but it does lose pressure, could this be due to pressure testing the whole system and I only need to pressure test the new line? Is it usually best practice to put the shut off valve at the beginning?
[color=#2033b1]Is a 3" ABS coupling the only way to connect two 3" ABS pipes together? I'm replacing a section of CI with ABS, and on one end where the new ABS pipe will connect to an existing ABS pipe, by way of the coupling, I won't be able to give the pipe a 1/4" turn when welding (gluing) the pipe to the connector. Is a Femco okay to use? I will be calling for an inspection, so I'm sure the inspector will have something to say if the proper connection isn't used.
This is for a below ground sewer line.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Thank you.[/color]
06-13-22, 04:08 PM
