I am trying to install a gas range. The range has a reinforcing crossbar on the back side near the bottom that does not clear the gas line and valve coming through the floor. Please see the picture. The crossbar is only 2'' above the floor. The gas pipe sticks out by about 5 inches from the floor (2'' pipe, 3'' shut off valve, then the hose needs some room too). How do I connect this range? I can take the bar off, but then I can't put it back on after connecting to the gas line.

I have another similar range (different brand) at another place, and it just does not have this crossbar and has plenty of room for the pipe and valve.

Thanks.

 

That metal bar is part of the anti-tipover system.
The bracket is tied on to the bar and will get attached to the wall.

Please post the model number for me.

 

Yes, it is part of the anti-tipover system, but I still don't understand how can I clear the gas line.
The model is Wolf GR-304. I am attaching the installation guide. Page 7 shows that the gas line should be on the right side 5'' to 17'' from the cabinet and no more 2'' tall. How am I supposed to make it 2'' tall? The threaded pipe is 1'' minimum, then there is valve and hose on top of it. In my current setup (at another house) the pipe + valve is about 5'' tall.
Thanks.

 

I called the manufacturer. The tech support said that I might be able to use CSST, but they are not sure. I looked at the black CSST (counterstrike) and I think the bend radius I need is too small for the CSST. The CSST would come out straight through the floor and there is no way I could bend it so tight to connect to the pressure regulator and black pipe on the photo.

Do you know if the code allows to put a 90 degrees elbow right after coming through the floor? If yes, the shut off valve can be horizontal. It will need about 3 inches of height to clear the valve by the bar on the picure. It will require only 2.3 inches if I am able to tighten the valve handle at an angle (valve handle facing the bottom of the stove. I can gain 1'' height by adjusting the stove legs. First, I would connect the 90 degrees elbow to the nipple going down. Then I will have to measure carefully for the nipple to fully go into the T in the basement while the elbow be right at the floor level. Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks.

 

Yes, a 90° fitting is permitted. You probably would have to tighten the shutoff into the 90° fitting first. Then screw the 90° down onto the nipple sticking up through the floor. It is a gas line so of course you will need to shut off the gas supply and bleed out the gas before working on it. Good ventilation in the work area is a good idea to prevent a flammable or explosive pocket of gas to form, though you'll probably still smell gas when you open up the line. Then pressure testing the system is best. 2nd best is to paint all your joints with bubble soap to check for leaks.

Anti-tip brackets are a very new thing for stoves. Stoves from the proceeding 100+ years did not have that safety feature. Unfortunately many manufacturers just slapped a bar across the back knowing that it will get in the way for some installs but they are complying with safety regulations. At least all I have seen are easily removed.

In your case you can consider cutting open the floor and moving the gas line a few inches.

 

Thank you!

The floor is tile, difficult to open and repair. I can fit 90 degrees elbow on the nipple, then insert the nipple through the floor and then screw it into the T in the basement. I can cut and thread the nipple if needed to exact length (takes time and effort). I cannot screw it with the shut off valve attached (not enough room from the back wall). I would have to put the valve after the nipple and elbow are installed. Unfortunately, to rotate the valve I would need about 3'' of clearance (to pass the valve handle under the valve when rotating it). I wonder if it would be possible to push the nipple down 1/2'' or so after the valve is tightened. The T in the basement would be "free-hanging" on about 10' long section of 1'' pipe.

Thanks for all other reminders. Will vent out the fumes first. Yes, pressure and bubble testing. Will leave it overnight with pressure gauge attached. The pressure gauge goes onto another T for a dryer that will not be installed, just terminated.

 

Are you sure the bar is part of the anti-tip feature? On pages 4 and 10 of the instructions you posted show the bracket attached to the floor/wall and engaging one of the rear leveling feet. (Mine is like that, too.) I think it is just on the bar for shipping. Also, could the bar be moved up to clear the piping? Possibly just removed if not needed for anti-tip.

 

The bar is part of the anti-tip feature. The bolt assembly is screwed into that bar. The bar can be removed (together with the bolt) by unscrewing 4 screws on the picture. Then there is enough clearance for gas line, but no way to install anti-tip feature. I tried raising the casters and legs. It is 33 3/8'' from the bottom of the bar to the range surface. If I need 3'' clearance, the surface will be at 36 3/8''. The counter height is 35 5/8. So, the range will be 3/4'' higher than the counter. It is not terrible, but not ideal too. I think the best option is to do 90 degrees elbow, install the shut off horizontally and then cut out the anti-tip bar along just enough to clear the valve. 3/4'' or so in height and about 10'' along to allow the elbow, short nipple, valve, and some room for flex hose.

I can "throw the stove over the line", but I think that setup is dangerous, because anyone trying to pull the stove will be breaking the line.

Not possible to move the bar up. The bolt is connected to it. Would need to drill new holes to attach the bar to the stove. And the bar does not clear the black pipe and the bracket that pipe sits on.

 

Did you look at pages 4 & 10 in the manual? It shows an anti-tip bracket that engages the leveling foot. If you unbolt the bracket from the bar and it has a slot to slide the foot into, you can eliminate the bar. If not a slot but a bolt hole, you may be able to cut it to make a slot into the bolt hole for the leveling screw to fit. The slot goes over the shoe and fits on both sides of the leveling screw. If the stove begins to tip, the shoe catches on the bracket and stops the tipping.

That is another alternative, if necessary. Better than cutting the bar for clearance.

I don't see a bolt on the bar, only two red ty-raps holding it on. If here is a bolt (or a pin) it may just be there to engage the slot during shipping.

The label above the bracket is showing something the I cannot enlarge enough to read. Provide a clear straight-on shot of the label.

 

Here are the close-up photos. The bracket (tied with purple tie strings) should be screwed into the wall. I probably would not want to screw it into the tile floor. The bolt goes into the slot in that bracket. The bolt height is adjustable. I can unbolt the bracket that holds the bolt from the bar, possibly slide the foot of the wall bracket into the bolt bracket, but how would I connect the bolt bracket to the stove without the bar?
Even if I drill new holes, the bar does not clear the bracket for the black gas pipe.
Is your setup different?

 

See if the bottom of either rear foot looks enough like the bolt that it could slide into the wall bracket slot. Or if the bolt could be screwed into the foot. Post a picture of the bottom of the foot.

If yes then the wall bracket can be used with the foot as shown in the manual and the bar can be eliminated.

Attaching the bracket to the wall will need more than drywall screws to be secure. Use mollys or toggle bolts if a stud is not there.

 

The rear of the stove does not have feet. It has swivel casters, i.e. wheels. They rotate and can adjust the height a bit. The wheels are under the stove, they are offset from the back several inches. One wheel is forward from the 90 degrees black pipe turn you see in the picture. The other wheel is on the opposite side. The front has legs with adjustable height.
Are you talking about the horizontal panels I marked red? Should I try to slide one of these 2 panels under the wall bracket?

 

Well casters explains why they changed the anti-tip design. I have a couple of ideas about modifying the bar and bracket, but I am writing this on my tablet and don’t have the ability to attach a sketch. I will do that tomorrow morning from my computer.

 

Good morning,

Tipping occurs over a pivot point at the front feet. Anything you can do to keep the back of the stove from rising up will work. Here are some ideas:

These are some rough ideas based on what I can see in your photos. There may be other interferences that will prevent using them or similar possibilities that can be used.

Other variations might be an L bracket installed on the back of the stove (inside the pipe recess) near the floor that could slip under your horizontal gas pipe, or a wood block on the wall that could slip between the upper edge of that alcove and the original bar moved up. One advantage of mounting an L bracket or wood block on the wall is that you can locate it at a stud for secure mounting.

Mounting the original floor/wall bracket onto wall assumes that the stove will be pushed back all the way to the wall. If there is a gap between the stove and the wall it may not work but a longer L bracket might.

 

Hi,

Thanks a lot for the drawings! I greatly appreciate them.

Why not cut the bar along the bottom to allow enough clearance. Like 1'' in height and maybe 10'' or so along the edge?

 

The U shape of the bar gives it most of its strength in a straight run. Cutting it as you suggest would compromise that significantly. Using the "elaborate" option in my sketch would be an easier cut and the vertical piece attached at its top to the stove back would give it strength.