My house has a 3" copper stack running from the basement slab up through 2 floors and out the roof (naturally). The upper level's kitchen sink drains into this pipe. The lower level's bathroom sink does as well. I'm fixing the plumbing situation for the washing machine which is next to the batch room sink. Currently it drains into what was originally a toilet drain, which means it's raised up about 8" off the ground on a platform. Long story short, it's time to "do it right", mostly because I'm replacing the washer/dryer with a new stackable set (the current washer/dryer is a very old stacked unit).
That's the backstory. Now for my question. I need to replace the current single-wye at the base of the 3" copper stack with a double-wye, and I'm scared. I've done this before but with a galvanized 2" stack and only one story's worth of it. And that was marginally difficult to keep the stack from falling downward. With a 3" copper stack which is probably 22' in height, I imagine it's going to be heavy!
Existing wye and 3" copper stack.
Diagram showing my plans.
As you can see I will have the washer box drain to a P then head leftward toward the stack, connecting to the new wye.
Looking for tips on how I can do this myself. It's going to be near impossible / completely impossible to find a plumber where I am (southern VT), on short order. All service fold are generally booked weeks out, and I only have a few days to complete this project.
PS: I've already bought the 3x3x3 wye, bushings, 45s, and Fernco flexible couplings (for the stack-to-double-wye and PVC-to-ABS connections).
I'm not the plumbing pro but I do a lot of plumbing work.
I've never cut into a copper stack.
You may have to attach a few straps around it and into the nearby framing lumber.
You mentioned Fernco couplers for the Wye. I doubt those are strong enough.
I would think a copper stack would need to be kept all copper and a sweat in Wye required.
The Fernco rubber boots you bought will provide almost no support so you'll need to permanently support the stack of plumbing above. I install blocking tight below a fitting. The larger diameter of the fitting will help stop it from sliding through the blocking. Strapping can work if done well but smooth copper can also slide right through it so inspect your work and make sure you have the stack secured before cutting out the fitting at the bottom. You can also sweat a copper or brass "something" to the side of the stack to create an attachment point or bump to help prevent it from sliding through your tying method.
Thank you both. I figured the Fernco couplings would just provide lateral support and the copper would be supported vertically, once complete, because within the coupling the copper would rest on the PVC which is glued to the new fitting, then more PVC+Fernco+Copper -- in the end a "solid" vertical pipe with no air gap between the fittings. Am I not correct?
I am leaning toward doing a temporary workaround until I can get a plumber to do this part of the job for me.
You probably will not get your fittings and pipe touching. When using rubber boot's it is common to leave some space between the two. Plus, I would not rely on the PVC to support the weight of all that copper and brass above. It was never designed to be load bearing.
If you plan to hire a plumber, hire the plumber. Why would you do a temporary job that you know has to be redone?
Hiring a plumber is much easier said than done around here. If you can get one to call you back, they'll tell you their booked! Still trying to find one though, thanks for your input.
Sometimes when it appears all the plumbers and electricians are booked for weeks out you may not want to use a plumber you find that isn't busy. It's a catch "22" for sure.
Yes, understood. I finally found a plumber who stopped by and took a look and basically said I could it myself safely, but I hired him to come back in a couple weeks when he has a few free hours. For now, I'm draining the washing machine into the shower. Best I can (comfortably) do in the meantime. Thanks for the insights.
* Be sure you're using shielded couplings. Rubber Fernco couplers aren't approved for in-wall use.
* As others have said, support the copper pipe before cutting it. You don't want it slipping down as it will damage seals above and likely the roof boot as well.
* Your washing machine drain needs a vent per code. Your area may or may not allow an AAV for that.
* Be sure to recycle the copper/brass. It'll at least pay for your new materials!
Rough in plumbing was done yesterday detached garage with loft and I had to leave before he got started and came home to this install. Its for rough in for sink and toilet main level and, sink, toilet, shower in loft.
Im looking for some feedback on things that were done. Take a look at these photos and let me know if anything looks questionable.
Im no expert but is this layout standard practice?
The pex in the dirt with a slab to be poured on top it?
Shouldnt PEX be sleeved instead of just laying on dirt then bending it up through the eventual slab?
Wire tieing PVC to rebar?
Holes busted through the block and not sealed?
Heard him say he only had one long sweep...looks like the toilet has a short sweep?
The biggest thing that makes me question is before I left he asked" where is inspector coming from" and I told him and he said "good - i know those guys - now i know what i can get by with"
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Hello,
I bought a house that has a gas line running all the way the entire width of the house on the back, on the outside. My goal is to move it to the inside.
My question is on advice on where to run it without impacting my home structurally too much.
Top contenders:
- through 2x4 framing in the rear of the house (upstairs, due to patio door downstairs)
- through floor joists between 1st and 2nd story
- through roof rafters above 2nd story, I believe that there is no attic space.
I attached 2 pictures of the outside and 1 picture of the inside. The inside picture shows the downstairs, to the right is the back wall. The back right corner in is where the gas line would enter the house from the outside.
Thank you for all suggestions!
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07-04-22, 06:30 PM
