I bought a house that has a gas line running all the way the entire width of the house on the back, on the outside. My goal is to move it to the inside.
My question is on advice on where to run it without impacting my home structurally too much.
Top contenders:
- through 2x4 framing in the rear of the house (upstairs, due to patio door downstairs)
- through floor joists between 1st and 2nd story
- through roof rafters above 2nd story, I believe that there is no attic space.
I attached 2 pictures of the outside and 1 picture of the inside. The inside picture shows the downstairs, to the right is the back wall. The back right corner in is where the gas line would enter the house from the outside.
Run it where you have the best access and what you want to destroy installing it. You only told and showed us it running across the back of the house but didn't say where it needs to go (what it must service). If you look at the house and see where the gas needs to go it might help make your "where to run" decision.
You'll probably use CSST because of its flexibility which can make it a lot easier to retrofit install in wall studs and floor joists. If putting it in your attic (really, you don't know if there is an attic???) you might be able to run threaded steel. You can also use soft copper but my gut says it's an expensive option right now.
The pipe is for the stove in the kitchen and the outside BBQ, which are both pretty much at that corner of the house where the gas pipe is going.
I didn't realize that there is a type of flexible gas pipe that is allowed inside walls! Thank you, that helped a lot. I thought I would have to use the threaded pipe, which I imagined being very difficult alongside a 2x4 wall.
The flexible gas line is yellow and is called CSST.
It is not strong like iron pipe. It must be well protected where it's run.
Good luck.... it's not going to be a simple job.
If you do end up using CSST I do recall that the cuts had to be square and clean in order to get a leak free connection to the fittings. With careful work a fine toothed hack saw and then cleaning with a file can work.
Also, check your local codes and the manufacturer's installation recommendations to see if connections/fittings are permitted in concealed locations like buried inside a wall. I personally like to run the tubing continuous through walls and inaccessible locations and only have fittings were they are open and accessible. If there ever is a leak I want it to be in the open where it can vent naturally, I can smell the leak and fix it. I don't like the idea of gas potentially leaking inside a confined space.
I guess my question is why, aesthetics of just removing the pipe from the wall?
With the other items up there, looks like electrical, maybe some type of custom conduit/channel to contain everything might be an easier/cleaner option.
My house has a 3" copper stack running from the basement slab up through 2 floors and out the roof (naturally). The upper level's kitchen sink drains into this pipe. The lower level's bathroom sink does as well. I'm fixing the plumbing situation for the washing machine which is next to the batch room sink. Currently it drains into what was originally a toilet drain, which means it's raised up about 8" off the ground on a platform. Long story short, it's time to "do it right", mostly because I'm replacing the washer/dryer with a new stackable set (the current washer/dryer is a very old stacked unit).
That's the backstory. Now for my question. I need to replace the current single-wye at the base of the 3" copper stack with a double-wye, and I'm scared. I've done this before but with a galvanized 2" stack and only one story's worth of it. And that was marginally difficult to keep the stack from falling downward. With a 3" copper stack which is probably 22' in height, I imagine it's going to be heavy!
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1374x1219/pxl_20220704_163653674_08bb44476b1d9a8717628c7ce8b44a1b0d05bc36.jpg[/img]
[i]Existing wye and 3" copper stack.[/i]
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1811x1176/screenshot_20220704_131840_83af26cd5ef9ed54a88875c1ccf3feeba231f038.png[/img]
[i]Diagram showing my plans.[/i]
As you can see I will have the washer box drain to a P then head leftward toward the stack, connecting to the new wye.
Looking for tips on how I can do this myself. It's going to be near impossible / completely impossible to find a plumber where I am (southern VT), on short order. All service fold are generally booked weeks out, and I only have a few days to complete this project.
PS: I've already bought the 3x3x3 wye, bushings, 45s, and Fernco flexible couplings (for the stack-to-double-wye and PVC-to-ABS connections).
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1080x1350/fb_img_1658757360713_04d1138a6f40616ebb04444cd2714fdd2dc3f6be.jpg[/img]
[i]Hi guy, i had a slab leak repair a few months ago and i just noticed this picture of the repair. I asked the plumber if the cold water line needs to be replaced since it was turning green and he said that the copper pipe was very thick and green on a pipe dosent mean it will crumble and the pipe was in good shape. I wanted to ask the community if i have anything to worry about. Also the hot water pipe leaked because there was a rock that was sitting on it for about 30 years and it gave in. [/i]
07-20-22, 01:47 PM
