Hello. Sorry if this isn’t the correct thread to post in.
I’ve been having issues with my kitchen sinks. When I drain one sink, it floods up through the other sink. Sometimes it seems slow to drain. I assume there’s a clog or blockage in the drain trap (P trap? Not sure if they’re the same). I’ve tried using baking soda and vinegar to flush it out but the problem remains. My partner has previously used products such as Drano but never seems to help long term. So, I think it’s time to check for clogs…
1. Do I unscrew the three pieces circled in the attached photo? Once unscrewed, I’ll clear any blockages and clean it out.
2. Will I need to reattach the pieces with tape or any kind of glue?
3. Do I need to shut off the main water to the house or will turn the ones off under the sink be sufficient?
4. Are there any special tools that I will need?
Any advice, tips or guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
Yes.... you will need to loosen those three locknuts to remove the entire drain and trap assembly.
Your clog will more than likely be at the fitting in the wall where the pipe thru the wall connects.
Normally you would just remove the trap, but what you have is all Sch 40 pipe/fittings from the tailpieces on. I have never seen that before and definitely would never recommend it be done this way. You current issue and how to resolve it is a great reason why it shouldn't be done this way.
Thanks everyone for your responses so far. I was able to remove it today and cleared the clogs in the pipes. I removed as much as I could from the pipe in the wall - if I have issues again I’ll get a sink auger thing to remove what I couldn’t. When I reattached the pipe the sinks drain without coming up into the other one.
I tried to remove the pipe under the bathroom sink but the nut was too tight so I’ll have to get a tool to remove it. Thanks again!
You'd need to use a snake to clean the pipe to stack fitting. The one in the link is the one I have.
A good all around snake to have. Ridgid plumbing snake
Hello all,
I need to seal the old refrigerator water line because I don't need it anymore.
Question> Is there a male cap I can use? I searched homedepot but didn't find anything that works for me.
Thank you
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Hello,
I am going to replace 2 very old Stop and Waste valves in my basement. Due to some piping movement limitation I will be using soldering method. I purchased two brand new [b][color=#111820]EVERBILT 1/2 in. Brass Sweat x Sweat Stop and Waste valves from Ebay. They have rubber plugs. I have few questions below.
1. Do I need remove stems from the valves before soldering to protect rubber plugs?
2. Can I just install stems back after soldering, or do I have to [/color][/b][color=#444444]wrap new packing rope around the stem [/color][b][color=#111820]when I install it back?
3. I have very old (probably 7 or 10 years old) Oatey N0. 95 [/color][/b][color=#333333]Solder Tinning Flux Paste left [/color][b][color=#111820]from my previous home project . Can I still use that paste or do I need to buy a new paste?[/color][/b]
4. Some youtube videos recommend using low melt solder for soldering 1/2" copper pipes? Does it really necessary? Where can I get low melt solder?
Thank you very much in advance for your answers and suggestions,
08-06-22, 08:25 AM
