Replace Sink drain


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Old 08-09-22, 06:56 PM
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Replace Sink drain

I had to open the Clean Out from the P-Trap for our sink. When replacing it, I messed up overtightening it and hence cracking the P-Trap

The problem is , P-Trap seems to be glued on one side (screwed to the sink tail pipe but glued to outlet).

How do I remove it to replace the Trap ?

Q2 -- Is there any way to repair the cracked P-Trap ? I used JB Weld but that didn't help. The sink is infrequently used
 
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Old 08-09-22, 08:59 PM
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You probably need to cut right behind the glued on trap and in its place, glue on a hub x 1 1/2" SJ adapter, and replace the existing p trap with a 1 1/2" SJ p trap kit.

SJ stands for slip joint.

Post a photo if you want us to be sure this advice is correct.
 
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Old 08-10-22, 10:25 AM
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Thanks much for help. Pics attached. Can you also help how I open the tail pipe ? When I try to rotate the nut holding it to the sink, entire pipe rotates. My DW is furious that we now need to spend $$ .to get a plumber



 

Last edited by PJmax; 08-10-22 at 03:51 PM. Reason: resized pics/labeled first one
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Old 08-10-22, 10:36 AM
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Old 08-10-22, 10:57 AM
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One thing you can try is to use hair-dry to soften the outside of the P trap connector and then peal it off.
It should work if you do it carefully and will not damage the mating surface.

Best
 
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Old 08-10-22, 03:52 PM
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Unscrew it at the basket to remove the tailpiece, then unscrew the slip joint nut. Cut it right behind the 45 degree elbow hub on the right side of your first pic.

Then get some all purpose pvc glue and purple primer. A street 45 elbow and a hub x SJ adapter. A tailpiece (if needed) and a slip joint p trap kit. Use primer first on all connections, then glue. Glue the adapter onto the street 45. Glue both those items onto the cut end of the pipe.

Then the rest goes together with slip joint fittings.... no glue or primer.

You don't need a plumber for this, on a scale from 1-10, with ten being the most difficult, this is probably a 2. It would be a 1, except you need to cut the pipe with a hacksaw or sawzall. That's the hardest part.
 
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Old 08-10-22, 04:17 PM
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The plumbing was installed incorrectly. The P trap should have been made removable.
B, C, D get removed.
Cut the pipe E right at D.

This is the kit you need but you need the piece (D) that attaches to E to be 45 degree.
trap kit

This is a straight fitting. You'd need the 45 degree version. Couldn't find a picture.
 
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Old 08-10-22, 06:27 PM
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If you are saying the basket is rotating when you turn the tailpiece nut, then you also need to replace the basket. Also not very hard or expensive to diy.
 
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Old 08-11-22, 10:58 AM
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Thanks much for all help PjMax and XSleeper. helped me get some confidence . Very much appreciated the detailed responses

Should I cut at D, after D, before D ?

I see the kit -- this is exactly what I installed in another bathroom that I gut remodeled (had a helper though) , but I wanted something with a clean out .

In that bath, it was easier because it was a straight connection.and whole system (including sink) was demoed

Also, in my other bathroom, I used some sort of rubber/PVC adapter (black colored) with clamps when connecting the fitting to E. In that case, E was a metal (iron) drain pipe.

Can I use similar rubber adapter in this as well ? Want to keep everything easily removable instead of gluing

Another challenge I am having is removing the sink strainer (is that what you are calling basket XSleeper ?) and tail piece. Soaking those with vinegar periodically. Hopefully those will loosen.
 
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Old 08-11-22, 02:14 PM
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I would cut between the D and E. You can put a needle nose down the sink strainer basket and hold it while you turn the nut underneath. No point soaking it, just use both hands and your muscle and brain.

You don't need a cleanout with slip joint traps, you just take them apart and dump them out. Takes 60 seconds.

You don't need a rubber adapter. Already told you what you need. Glue on the 45 street elbow, glue on the slip joint adapter. They are permanent. Everything else you can take apart, which IMO is the way it should be.
 
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Old 08-11-22, 05:04 PM
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My DW is furious that we now need to spend $$ .to get a plumber
Where was your DW when this was being installed incorrectly? I am just guessing what DW stands for. so far I have two possibilities.
 
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Old 09-26-22, 05:15 AM
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A long overdue thanks to @XSleeper and @Pjmax. You guys provided the knowledge, but more than that, you provided the inspiration and confidence that I needed to take up my first plumbing job.

I did make mistake, but eventually it worked out.

the only thing that I had to hack is -- I ignored the old adage -- measure twice cut once. What happened is, the p trap did not get aligned to tailpiece. So I used a flex tube to connect the tail. Worked beautifully... no leak no block.
 
 

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