I have an anti-frost hose bib that is missing the faucet and when I turn it on with a wrench, it has low flow. I took it apart and looked for replacement internals, but I am not able to locate them. Looks like it is time to replace the faucet. But how is the faucet connected? My house was built in 2005 and I think it has PEX piping. What is the faucet attached to behind the wall? I cannot access the faucet plumbing from inside the house without ripping into a wall. My guess is that there is a PEX line attached to the faucet with enough slack so that I can simply pull it through the hole, cut off a small piece to disconnect the line from the existing faucet and then crimp it into a new faucet as shown in this video:
I cannot access the faucet plumbing from inside the house without ripping into a wall.
Yes.... that is typical.
If you have PEX.... there would need to be a right angle connector on the end.
PEX will not bend into a 4" wall section.
Although there are a number of companies manufacturing them and they look a little different..... they all connect the same way. There is a 1/2" male NPT fitting to screw onto or 1/2" pipe can be soldered inside the threaded portion. So that mean you must get access to the back of the valve.
Yes, because of the length of a frost proof spigot they are almost always located inside a wall or floor cavity. Luckily sheetrock is easily repaired but often requires at least the whole wall to be repainted so the patch doesn't show.
I was able to identify my faucet. Attached is a PDF of the repair parts for anyone else in the same situation. I ended up ordering part number 888-556 for the replacement repair cartridge and stem which is slightly different from the original stem and cartridge that came with the faucet. Also ordered the handle. That fixed my problem. Now I don't need to replace the faucet and saved hundreds of $.
The first photo below shows my current setup. I want to eliminate the P-trap by the disposal and run a straight pipe to the end outlet.
The second and third photos respectively show the current disposal discharge tube and the disposal connection.
The fourth and last photo shows what I bought. Before I open the package, I want to know if it will work to cut off the flange from one of the two tubes in the kit and use the bevel washer to connect to the disposal?
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Hello to all! Hoping to solicit some wisdom about my 2nd floor laundry. I am having my wood floors redone and my washing machine drains directly into a 2" drain pipe but is also sitting atop of a pan drain. I would like to get rid of the pan so the flooring guys can patch the hole in the wood floor but have the following questions:
1) Do I need a pan drain if I already have the direct drain?
2) If I don't need the pan drain, how can I seal off the drain under the wood floor?
3) Should I let the flooring team enclose the drain with wood flooring?
Pictures attached. Thanks!
Regards,
Patrick
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08-23-22, 03:28 PM
