Hello to all! Hoping to solicit some wisdom about my 2nd floor laundry. I am having my wood floors redone and my washing machine drains directly into a 2" drain pipe but is also sitting atop of a pan drain. I would like to get rid of the pan so the flooring guys can patch the hole in the wood floor but have the following questions:
1) Do I need a pan drain if I already have the direct drain?
2) If I don't need the pan drain, how can I seal off the drain under the wood floor?
3) Should I let the flooring team enclose the drain with wood flooring?
Check your local codes to see if a pan is required in your area. Since the plumbing is already there I would keep it. It could really save you if the washer ever develops a leak.
Many codes do require a drain pan for 2nd floor laundry. It not uncommon for washers to leak, and you don't want a potential leak to end up ruining the floor/ceiling or more.
Thanks for the responses! I was told that a pan drain shouldn't tie into the main plumbing drain and if the p-trap dries up it can cause issues. Should I keep the pan drain and just ensure I pour water in it? Thanks!
You can put light mineral oil into the trap. Oil doesn't evaporate and it will stop sewer gasses from escaping. Or, pour some water in the trap if you ever notice a smell.
I have an anti-frost hose bib that is missing the faucet and when I turn it on with a wrench, it has low flow. I took it apart and looked for replacement internals, but I am not able to locate them. Looks like it is time to replace the faucet. But how is the faucet connected? My house was built in 2005 and I think it has PEX piping. What is the faucet attached to behind the wall? I cannot access the faucet plumbing from inside the house without ripping into a wall. My guess is that there is a PEX line attached to the faucet with enough slack so that I can simply pull it through the hole, cut off a small piece to disconnect the line from the existing faucet and then crimp it into a new faucet as shown in this video:
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5kxToxiVC8[/url]
Does that sound right or is this job more complicated than I thought?
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New detached garage.
Plumber states the loft area toilet flange location is directly over a floor I-Beam. (Its located in the middle of a 4' width and I'd prefer it in the middle)
He said to keep it there he will either need to hack through the sub-floor and I-Beam to allow clearance for the flange or to semi-hack into it and install an offset flange. The I-beam manufacturers "allowable web hole" chart shows holes or pattern of holes no larger than a certain diameter but specifically stated not to cut/disrupt the upper or lower flange "plates" of the beam. These are 16" beams on 16" centers. There is a double beam 2 beams over from the one in question.
[b]Questions:[/b]
[list=1]
[*]Should I be concerned if he wants to make a cutout (6"L X 6"D) into the beam to use a standard flange?
[*]Should I be concerned if he needs to cut into it minimally to use an offset flange?
[*]Are offset flanges acceptable to use?
[*]If so, are their "brands" that are better to use then others?
[/list]
He is the builders plumber and has been a complete hack at everything he has done. Saturday he ripped through the main water line with a ditch witch cutting off water to the house.Then bludgeoned the 1 1/4" buried conduit containing the 10/2wg well pump power with a mattock cutting the sheathing and damaging the insulation. He than told me, "if the pump turn on the wire fine". Oh...and he did this even after I carefully dug/exposed the conduit so he wouldn't *#* it up.
Sorry for the rant.
Any input on the flange is appreciated.FF