New detached garage.
Plumber states the loft area toilet flange location is directly over a floor I-Beam. (Its located in the middle of a 4' width and I'd prefer it in the middle)
He said to keep it there he will either need to hack through the sub-floor and I-Beam to allow clearance for the flange or to semi-hack into it and install an offset flange. The I-beam manufacturers "allowable web hole" chart shows holes or pattern of holes no larger than a certain diameter but specifically stated not to cut/disrupt the upper or lower flange "plates" of the beam. These are 16" beams on 16" centers. There is a double beam 2 beams over from the one in question.
Questions:

1. Should I be concerned if he wants to make a cutout (6"L X 6"D) into the beam to use a standard flange?
2. Should I be concerned if he needs to cut into it minimally to use an offset flange?
3. Are offset flanges acceptable to use?
4. If so, are their "brands" that are better to use then others?

He is the builders plumber and has been a complete hack at everything he has done. Saturday he ripped through the main water line with a ditch witch cutting off water to the house.Then bludgeoned the 1 1/4" buried conduit containing the 10/2wg well pump power with a mattock cutting the sheathing and damaging the insulation. He than told me, "if the pump turn on the wire fine". Oh...and he did this even after I carefully dug/exposed the conduit so he wouldn't *#* it up.
Sorry for the rant.
Any input on the flange is appreciated.FF

 

I would not allow any framing to be cut or notched for the toilet flange.
Are you saying that the toilet cannot be moved several inches ?

 

Hmm...well he never mentioned that. Though I'd prefer the toilet to be in the center of the bathroom width. I'll take a look.
For my general reference:

• Are offset flanges acceptable to use?
• If so, are their "brands" that are better to use then others?

EDIT: I measured and will tell him to move it 5" towards the left wall that will leave 19" from wall to center of flange hole. I also left a 4" hole saw for him to use as Im afraid he will butcher the sub-floor with a reciprocal saw (his favorite hack tool). Cuts crooked never de-burrs just slaps on the glue) and shoves.

 

Another toilet flange question:
In garage level I am only epoxying the floor so the toilet mounts to direct/flush to slab. He knew this but told me he forgot to put a spacer on the O.D. of the waste pipe when the slab was poured so the flange collar would slide down beyond the slab surface and mount flush. He didn't have an I.D. flange and chiseled the **** out of the slab about an 1 1/2", cut the flange collar with his sawzall, hacked the waste pipe a 1/2" below the slab with a multitool then glued it and forced it on. I'd guess there is a ~1/2" of glued engagement.
I asked him if this was code and he said "they aint gonna see that". When he glued the flange, the key slots are out of alignment and he said he likes to use the straight slots "because they're thicker". This morning I looked at the flange and the straight slots he used are .17" thick and the key slots are thicker at .25"
Anyone ever see this done?
Why would he line up the straight slots and not use the key slots as designed?
Is there going to be any issue when I drywall since the flange slot centers are ~11 7/8 from the sill plate?
Between his hack plumbing and destroying my my well conduit/wire I fell like reporting this hack.
Can I do this? He should not have a plumbing license IMHO.

 

In your picture the flange is sitting proud of the floor.
Was that how it was and he worked on it or is that the current location now ?

As far as I can remember.... flange bolts are 1/4" which means they need go into the keyhole slots

 

Oh...its glued and screwed in the current location (as shown in the photo).
Its sitting off the slab about 1/16" in the front 1/3 of the flange diameter but flush in the other 2/3.
Im sure its sitting up a bit as when he hacked it off with the sawzall he just eye balled it and the waste pipe and the cuts were about 1/4" out of square.
Those rectangular slots are same width as the key slots. Ive just always used the key slots.
I guess a 1/2" of glued contact area is adequate on the flange for a hack.
As long as the toilet doesn't rock and I can get sheet rock behind it.

 

You don't need me to tell you that he's doing a mediocre job at best... but at least it looks like nothing is horribly wrong. I've seen those notches used in the flange, but have never used them myself.

Good call not allowing him to hack through the joist.

I would talk to the builder - either now or once it's all done. I would not want someone working in my house who's response to code-related issues is 'It doesn't matter, they won't see it anyway'.

Good luck