Bathroom drain - wall sill plate directly over Floor I-Beam
This question is on a small loft bathroom in new detached garage loft.
The loft wall of the bathroom where the sink/vanity mounts is directly over a floor I-Beam.
So the sill plate is directly over the I-Beam so the drain cant come up through the sill plate in the wall.
Can the drain come up through the floor a few inches away form the wall (between two i-beams) then cut a hole in the vanity bottom for the drain pipe to pass then put in a trap?
Yes, you can do that, but (there's always a but) how are you going to run the vent? Is there a similar construction above the wall, or can the vent be run inside the wall up to the upper level or attic?
There is a vent coming from the garage bathroom and it has free path all the way into attic/roof. With a tee it could be routed in attic over and down through the top plate and wall then 90 into the back of the vanity. Could that work somehow?
Yes, that would work. You could bring the drain up through the floor of the vanity to a san-tee. The P-trap goes to the center of the san-tee and then you would run the vent from the top of the tee, back into the wall and up to the attic.
Or you could run the drain into the wall right above the bottom plate of the wall and put the san-tee inside the wall. Downside of that is you will have more turns in the drain line making it more prone to clogging. Turns in the vent system don't matter much.
One more alternative would be to use a 2x6 wall or a little wider to allow you to plumb in the usual fashion without interference from the I joist. That steals a little from room size though.
Thanks for the info on the sanitary tee.
Sorry to be redundant but to make sure I understand, the drain line comes up through the floor, the san-tee is added in the correct orientation. Then a P-trap is added to the horizontal (center) opening of the tee, then the top of the tee (the vent) can be routed into the wall and up to the attic. (I think this is exactly what you re saying)
So....
Seems like it would be best that the drain come up through the floor close to the inside wall of the vanity to give plenty of room for the the P-trap to help line up with the sink drain?
When routing the vent over then up is it ok to use a 90 over to the wall then once inside the wall another 90 to get it heading up to the attic?
Leave a stub protruding out of the inside wall 90 so that I can fit the drywall then glue after the drywall is in?
Thanks for your help!
Yes, you've got it. Keep in mind that the drain doesn't have to be centered exactly behind the sink. Moving it a couple of inches left or right will give you a little more room for the P trap. Keeping the drain close to the wall will help too, just don't get it so close that the back of the vanity interferes with it.
I've also had good luck with using two 45's (or a 45 and street 45) to come up through the floor and go immediately into the wall. Basically you end up with about 2" - 3" of pipe visible once the drywall goes on. This little jog in the pipe is hidden under the floor of the vanity when it's pushed back against the wall.
It depends on the vanity and the size of the doubled-joists to figure out if it will fit and if any vanity modifications are needed, but it's a pretty easy solution if it all fits.
I see what your saying Zorfdt and I believe I could do that. A tad bit of the exposed radius could easily be covered by the clearance under the basic Lowes vanity bottom. The problem is the hack "plumber" is on the permit and he will be too lazy or hack everything up. He has zero finesse, He literally wears a sawzall on his belt and eyeballs every pvc cut or picks a spot and hacks into wood.
New detached garage.
Plumber states the loft area toilet flange location is directly over a floor I-Beam. (Its located in the middle of a 4' width and I'd prefer it in the middle)
He said to keep it there he will either need to hack through the sub-floor and I-Beam to allow clearance for the flange or to semi-hack into it and install an offset flange. The I-beam manufacturers "allowable web hole" chart shows holes or pattern of holes no larger than a certain diameter but specifically stated not to cut/disrupt the upper or lower flange "plates" of the beam. These are 16" beams on 16" centers. There is a double beam 2 beams over from the one in question.
[b]Questions:[/b]
[list=1]
[*]Should I be concerned if he wants to make a cutout (6"L X 6"D) into the beam to use a standard flange?
[*]Should I be concerned if he needs to cut into it minimally to use an offset flange?
[*]Are offset flanges acceptable to use?
[*]If so, are their "brands" that are better to use then others?
[/list]
He is the builders plumber and has been a complete hack at everything he has done. Saturday he ripped through the main water line with a ditch witch cutting off water to the house.Then bludgeoned the 1 1/4" buried conduit containing the 10/2wg well pump power with a mattock cutting the sheathing and damaging the insulation. He than told me, "if the pump turn on the wire fine". Oh...and he did this even after I carefully dug/exposed the conduit so he wouldn't *#* it up.
Sorry for the rant.
Any input on the flange is appreciated.FF
Cold water line goes outside to connect a hose faucet then goes back into crawl space about 5 feet long with a end stop(the yellow line shows in the photo). What’s the function of this yellow line? Can I connect any fixture like washing machine to this line?
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09-08-22, 05:27 PM
