Replacing pressure reducing valve


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Old 09-18-22, 07:55 PM
J
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Replacing pressure reducing valve

Asking for some help replacing my prv. This is a Watts N35B-US, so I believe the inlet (bottom) is a solder union, and the outlet (top) is a FPT. So the first thing I need to know is, am I going to need to unsolder the inlet connection to even get this off?
 

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09-19-22, 09:45 AM
Pilot Dane
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If you have some movement in your pipes you might be able to replace it without soldering. You never know exactly where a NPT connection will tighten so the height may change a little.
 
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Old 09-19-22, 09:45 AM
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If you have some movement in your pipes you might be able to replace it without soldering. You never know exactly where a NPT connection will tighten so the height may change a little.
 
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Old 09-19-22, 11:02 AM
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am I going to need to unsolder the inlet connection to even get this off?
Doesnít that nut on the bottom turn? I donít see how un-soldering would help. If you melted the solder you would need room to pull the joint apart. But if you have that much room then you would be able to spin out the regulator and you wouldnít need to un-solder in the first place.

But I could be wrong Ė I never installed a regulator and maybe Iím reading those connections wrong.
 
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Old 09-19-22, 12:05 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I'm confused on the lower connection too, as I don't have too much experience with plumbing. I've put compression shutoff valves on before, but no soldering experience. Although I've done a bit of solder repair on circuit boards, and if as long as I'm careful and follow procedures, I'm sure I can solder on a new PRV successfully.

But I don't even know if I need to right now. I don't know if turning that large lower nut will release the valve from the pipe, or if it's hard soldered on. I thought a "solder union" wouldn't need a large nut like that. What is the point of the nut? To my amateur eye, it looks like a female thread union (which, if so, I can replace with the same connection type valve with no soldering necessary.)
 
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Old 09-19-22, 02:00 PM
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Unscrew the union on the bottom. Then you need to hold the pipe on the top while you unscrew the PRV.
 
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Old 09-19-22, 02:07 PM
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While I was doing my coarse picture PD responded.So I guess that's how it really works.

(but that nut on yours looks a little funny. I guess that's irrelevant).

I'm thinking you might need pipe wrenches to do the job. Not real big ones. But maybe Pilot Dane or one of the other guys would know. I think you can rent small ones for not too much if you do in fact need pipe wrenches.

 
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Last edited by zoesdad; 09-19-22 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 09-19-22, 02:52 PM
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jd -
If you look around 3:40 on this youtube video you will see the guy using pipe wrenches for the job Ė to hold and turn. Thatís what I was thinking might be needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt3M...l=FishOnReview
 
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Old 09-19-22, 10:12 PM
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OK, so the bottom inlet connection releases by unscrewing the large nut, and top outlet connection releases by unscrewing the PRV around the pipe, got that. Now for ordering an exact drop in replacement PRV, I need to know which connection types to order. The top outlet will again be Female Pipe Thread. But for the bottom inlet, will I need a solder union connection again, or just a female thread union?
 
  #9  
Old 09-20-22, 10:21 AM
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This is the style you need:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-00...alve-Lead-Free

You'll notice one side has the union, and the other side has the female 3/4" thread. You'll be able to discard the union side and use the existing union.
You'll want to check the sizing if you don't think the piping has much movement.
 
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  #10  
Old 09-20-22, 11:51 AM
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OK, fabulous. That is actually the exact valve I was aiming for, just needed to be sure on the connection/union type. I think I should be good to go now.

Zorfdt, zoesdad, and Pilot Dane - thank you very much for taking the time to assist me!
 
 

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