Replaced the P-trap and waste arm from drain line in the wall. Waste arm was not glued or screwed in the drain line and had a compression washer only so that’s how I put it back together (with a new compression washer as well). Noticed that when filling the sink with water and letting it drain quickly that there is a very small leak between the waste arm and the drain pipe. Not sure how to fix this since there’s no stub out. It appears there is a small piece of pipe that is glued and screwed into the drain line. Should I remove this? If so, how?
The part on your wall is probably a slip joint nut that is threaded onto a slip joint adapter. So you will need to cut the caulk and plaster loose around the nut and get a big adjustable wrench or pipe wrench on it and turn it off of there. The slip joint nut usually has a couple wings, or some raised grooves around its perimeter.
Buy a new slip joint nut that comes with a compression ring to fit your size of p trap tailpiece, and then you slip the nut on the tailpiece, then the compression ring (beveled side toward the wall) and insert it and tighten the nut.
Be sure you aren't shoving the tailpiece in too far, or else you will partially block the vertical part of the tee or elbow . Cut the tailpiece to length if needed.
I might have shoved the tail piece in too far. I’m assuming that I probably did restrict water flow at the bend and it’s only noticeable when high water pressure goes through that area like a full sink of water. Is that area supposed to be water tight? May try that first and then the slip joint nut.
Pushing the pipe in too far may cause the drain to work slower but won't affect the leak.
You have what's in the picture. The white pipe should not slide easily in and out of the fitting.
As mentioned you need to clean the spackle from the nut.
All you may need to do is to just tighten the white ring in the wall a small amount.
Channel Lock pliers will make the job much easier.
I believe what you are seeing is the hub of the SJ adapter. There is a glued hub on the back side and threads on the closest side. You are removing the ring from the threaded side.
[color=#2033b1]I have a strange problem and can't find a resolution. Would appreciate the help from experts here.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I have a shower (just overhead shower without tub outlet) that hasn't been used for years on the second floor of the house. Everything was ok last time (years ago) when it was used. I tried to use it again the other day and found that there is absolute no water coming out. There is no sound when turning on the handle. Nothing. The other faucets and toilets in the same bathroom all work normally.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I ordered a replacement cartridge (Moen 1222) and replaced the old one with it. Still no water.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]When I had the old cartridge removed and before putting in the new one, I actually tried to turn on the main water shutoff value to the house and water did come out from the valve body (without the cartridge installed). It seems with good pressure and volume. However, after I put the new cartridge in and tried again, there is no water. Nothing at all.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]By the way, I removed the shower head and just left just the open pipe and nothing come out of the pipe. So I don't think the shower head is the issue.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I am totally puzzled and don't have clue what might be the problem.
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Reporting back the latest:[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I shut off the water to the house, took out the cartridge, removed the shower head.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Using a hand pump (a pump to inflate air mattress), I tried to blow air into the shower arm pipe.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I can clearly feel resistance. Air did not blow through freely, if at all.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Looking into the valve body with flash light, I can see 3 openings: two on either side and one on the bottom.[/color]
[color=#2033b1](Since the valve body has 4 sides that are connected to pipes like a cross shape, I was expecting to feel/see 4 internal opening. To my surprise, I could only see 3. )[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I assume the two on either sides are for cold and hot incoming water.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I assume the bottom opening is the common outlet for water to go to both the tub and the overhead.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Using a pick, I can not feel any obvious blockage at the immediate opening.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Using a spool of weed trimer string (those plastic string with some rigidity) I tried to probe from the overhead shower pipe opening. It went in pretty far (~2-3 feet) as I expect the string goes over the overhead shower arch and then descent toward the valve.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]I can also extend the string from the bottom opening inside the valve body for about 10 inch.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]In either case, since I don't know the exact routing, I could not navigate the string all the way to reach the other end.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]What could be the blockage that prevent air from blowing from the overhead shower toward the valve?[/color]
[color=#2033b1]How could that be resolved?[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Obviously, I would like to avoid having to knock out the the shower enclosure to get access to the valve body behind the wall to replace the whole thing.[/color]
[color=#2033b1]Updated to say that I have confirmed the valve body does NOT have the two screw shut off for hot/cold water. As mentioned earlier, I confirmed water could reach the cartridge because water poured out with the cartridge removed and water supply to the house turned on.[/color]
10-13-22, 12:33 PM
