Drain Pipe Leak


  #1  
Old 10-13-22, 12:33 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: DFW (Garland), TX
Posts: 61
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Drain Pipe Leak

Replaced the P-trap and waste arm from drain line in the wall. Waste arm was not glued or screwed in the drain line and had a compression washer only so thatís how I put it back together (with a new compression washer as well). Noticed that when filling the sink with water and letting it drain quickly that there is a very small leak between the waste arm and the drain pipe. Not sure how to fix this since thereís no stub out. It appears there is a small piece of pipe that is glued and screwed into the drain line. Should I remove this? If so, how?



 

Last edited by t2star; 10-13-22 at 01:01 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-13-22, 02:32 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,226
Received 1,715 Upvotes on 1,539 Posts
The part on your wall is probably a slip joint nut that is threaded onto a slip joint adapter. So you will need to cut the caulk and plaster loose around the nut and get a big adjustable wrench or pipe wrench on it and turn it off of there. The slip joint nut usually has a couple wings, or some raised grooves around its perimeter.

Buy a new slip joint nut that comes with a compression ring to fit your size of p trap tailpiece, and then you slip the nut on the tailpiece, then the compression ring (beveled side toward the wall) and insert it and tighten the nut.

Be sure you aren't shoving the tailpiece in too far, or else you will partially block the vertical part of the tee or elbow . Cut the tailpiece to length if needed.
 
  #3  
Old 10-13-22, 03:14 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: DFW (Garland), TX
Posts: 61
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I might have shoved the tail piece in too far. Iím assuming that I probably did restrict water flow at the bend and itís only noticeable when high water pressure goes through that area like a full sink of water. Is that area supposed to be water tight? May try that first and then the slip joint nut.

Thanks so much for the quick reply!
 
  #4  
Old 10-13-22, 07:32 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 62,078
Received 3,422 Upvotes on 3,068 Posts
Pushing the pipe in too far may cause the drain to work slower but won't affect the leak.

You have what's in the picture. The white pipe should not slide easily in and out of the fitting.
As mentioned you need to clean the spackle from the nut.
All you may need to do is to just tighten the white ring in the wall a small amount.
Channel Lock pliers will make the job much easier.
 
  #5  
Old 10-15-22, 06:58 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: DFW (Garland), TX
Posts: 61
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Iím seeing glue inside the pipe. So if it was glued before it was screwed, will I still be able to remove it just by screwing it out?


Here is a better picture.
 
  #6  
Old 10-15-22, 08:42 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,226
Received 1,715 Upvotes on 1,539 Posts
I believe what you are seeing is the hub of the SJ adapter. There is a glued hub on the back side and threads on the closest side. You are removing the ring from the threaded side.
 
  #7  
Old 10-15-22, 09:21 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 62,078
Received 3,422 Upvotes on 3,068 Posts
You have what I've shown. Yours is white...same difference.
The fitting is glued in.... not the nut and compression washer.

I can see the nut and the compression washer in your picture.

 
  #8  
Old 10-20-22, 07:29 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: DFW (Garland), TX
Posts: 61
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks xsleeper and pjmax
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: