Installed incorrectly for 20 yrs? (Compression fit washer valve, copper to PVC)
For my washing machine cutoff box, 20 year old house, I have to replace the cold water valve because it no longer can turn the water all the way off.
I managed to find the identical valve on Oatey's web site (that's a story to itself, you have to click into the "variations" link once you reach valves, to see them all, otherwise you could think they just show 2 or 3. )
However, on taking the original off, there was no compression barrel in place, the PVC tip was just stuck into the tapered inside of the valve and tightened down via the bolt. And held fast for 20 years without leaking. (Using the pictures, the old way was the box, the visible Nut on the box with the PVC pipe in place within the nut (the nut can rotate independently without turning the pipe), then the valve just tightened/screwed into the bolt (no barrel.)
When I screw the new one on, if I do it the same way as it was before I did anything (no barrel), when I reach what feels like the right amount of tightness (nice and tight, resisting further turning unless I were to really turn on the brute force), the valve is unfortunately facing the wrong way. Let's call that my question 1.
But the bigger question 2, was it just installed incorrectly in the first place? Should the barrel have been in place to begin with? (Or perhaps there's a barrel deeper down I'm not seeing?)
Since I did find an exact match, I was hoping for a quick and easy replacement just of the valve, not having to replace the whole box, or to go inside the drywall. I'm curious what those more knowledgeable than me think. See pictures.
Testing removing it with a pretty mild amount of prying, nothing extreme, the nut is in place pretty firmly (although as I mentioned, I can twirl it a bit, without it twirling the PVC pipe with it.)
Here's a new photo of how far down the new barrel sits, if I put it inside the nut. (The dental floss was just my safeguard for getting it back out after popping it in, in the event it might have gotten stuck.)
I'm tempted to agree. I was getting nervous about how tight I was going to have to screw the valve back on, to get the spigot pointing outward It was pointing to the back corner (right side) at the point I was running into real resistance, so I wanted to proceed with caution before putting my muscles on.
You can't install another ring. You'd need to remove existing. There can't be two.
That would mean either forcing the nut off or trying to slide the nut down exposing a ring.
If it was me... I'd try installing the new valve on existing.
You'll know right away if it doesn't seal.
A compression ferrule gets crimped onto the pipe as the nut is tightened. So in order to replace it... you'd need to slide the nut below it and cut it off very carefully with a hacksaw because if you nick the pipe... even a new ferrule won't seal.
The problem re-using the old fitting is that it won't seal when installing the new valve.
If yours sealed now..... you should never have a problem with it.
I have a low water pressure situation.
It's not at all fixtures and on some fixtures it's more the hot water (the water heater is new.) Example: The bathroom sink cold flow is fine, but the hot is low. (Hot valve is corroded BTW, cold valve seems newer.)
Then at the tub, both are slow...which have 2 old corroded gate valves in the basement.
Pipes are copper about 60 yrs old. The main is a ball valve, which seems to work fine. At this point, I'm thinking it's either clogged valves or clogged fixtures. Does this seem correct? If not, what?
[color=#141414]We have a leaky Sterling roman tub filler. The cold side is dripping (when rotated to the off position) and I assume the gaskets need to be replaced (or the entire stem unit). The YouTube videos make it look so easy as a DIY project... [/color]
[color=#141414]When trying to remove the stem unit, it seems to be catching on something. Feels like metal on metal. I was hoping to remove it so I could take good pictures/measurements and find replacement parts. I'm wondering if anyone has experience removing this type of stem unit. e.g., do you need a special tool, do you have to remove some other part, etc. [/color]
[color=#141414]I’m guessing that this is a Sterling #13623. I found the attached pdf on Kohler’s website (which owns Sterling) ([url]https://resources.kohler.com/plumbing/sterling/pdf/97393.pdf[/url]). The image on the lower left looks like ours. Our house was built around 2001 so this might be the model #. I was hoping to find a good diagram showing the construction so I could figure out how to completely remove the stem.[/color]
[color=#141414]I've attached a bunch of pictures. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks![/color]
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