Please see photo and let me know if you have any idea of causes for the leak. Water leaks only when opening bathroom faucet on first floor. No water inside cabinet but the leak penetrates the wall behind the cabinets. I had to open the drywall behind the faucet cabinets where the water was leaking in the garage and found the damage. It seems the problem is with the drainage pipe but can not tell how far down as the leak is coming from around the 2x4 base wood.
We can't tell from just the photo where it is getting wet. But it's pretty clear this isn't the first time it's been worked on.
You should likely cut away the bottom plate, to fully expose that pipe. Cut through the bottom plate on the left side of that stud and remove that short section of bottom plate. Clean it off and see what you can see.
You might find that someone did a poor job of joining new the pvc in your photo to some old preexisting pipe that we can't see because it's hidden from view. The fix might involve busting out some concrete to get to the root of the problem.
When it goes back together, you need to use steel Simpson "no-nail" plates to protect your water lines and sewer lines from fasteners, because they are too close to the surface of the framing.
This house is only 10 years old. We had a freeze alert last night and ended up dripping that line's faucet overnight to find the garage wet the next morning. Why would the drain leak at that point if you are just dripping? Does this mean there is a clog inside the line?
I do understand this problem has been there for a while and just noticed it because the dripping caused the water leak behind the wall. We just purchased the house about a year ago. When inspected the cabinets had some damage on the inside but thought it was a line leak inside the cabinet that was fixed as it was dry and no leaks when test the faucets.
Like I said, we can't tell you much until you expose the drain pipe where it enters the concrete. It could be cracked for all we know. It's likely one of these 3 things: cracked, not glued, or it's got a fastener that penetrated it and rusted through, leaving a hole.
I wanted to include a second photo which shows more damage to base behind the drain. What I do not understand how did the water trail back as the water was running down and not back.
Water has been leaking in that area for a long time. You can see how the mold gets worse the close it gets to that area.
Also check the faucet. It is possible that it leaks when running/open though the drain is the more likely culprit. Luckily you've already narrowed it down to leaking when the faucet is used so you can run the faucet until you have located the source of the leak.
So, after taking some concrete out around the pipe the leak comes from the lower ring inside of the elbow. I would say the amount of water leaking out is about 50% or more of the water running out of the faucet. Do you think silicon would seal it or the elbow has to be replaced? If the elbow has to come out how would you do it?
Cut under the hub of the elbow with a multi-tool. Cut about 6 inches above the hub. Then glue on a new elbow (cleaner/primer/ glue). Run a new shielded Fernco (rubber) connector up the pipe. Glue a new section of pipe into the top of the elbow. Then slide the Fernco down over the joint and tighten both sides.
That is a lot of water leaking, you want to fix it right. If you try to install one of those rings you may just do more damage to the existing pipe that a easy repair cant be done and you will need to get deeper into the concrete.
Your going to have to remove most of that pipe anyway so before cutting off the pipe below the elbow I'd cut out the upper pipe/elbow and see if the lower elbow can be removed. You might get lucky that the joint was not glued much and will come apart.
If not then your going to have to cut it off and then remove enough cement so that a new elbow or coupling can be installed.
Have you looked to see if that connection is glued? No purple primer is visible in the photos so it might simply be stuck in place. If that is the case see if there is enough flex or movement in the pipe to pull the fitting off the pipe so you can prime and glue it.
If the pipe won't move enough to pull the fitting free I would cut in the middle of the straight section of pipe above. Then you can glue the lower fitting and repair the cut with a glued coupling or rubber boot (Fernco) or no hub coupling (a rubber boot with a metal sleeve on the outside).
So we cut the upper part of the elbow and lower part was somewhat loose and came out with little wiggle, but chipped the in ground pipe. Would the following flexible pipe coupling work? The height from concrete around in ground tube to upper cut is 6". https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-1056-2...ct_top?ie=UTF8
I would recommend that you've done the hard part by digging that old fitting off to just keep at it and get enough clean pipe to glue on a replacement fitting. Your going to be refilling that area with cement and you don't want a clamped joint buried.
I'd agree with Marq, I'd sand the pipe to ensure a clean pipe, then prime and PVC cement a coupler onto it. Then after it's cured for ~30 minutes, then add a no-hub 45 degree PVC elbow on it and connect it with the rest. You'll need to use a rubber coupling likely unless you have some play in the angled PVC pipe, but I would put the coupler above ground.
By sanding, cleaning, priming, and cementing the pipe - giving the coupler a 45 degree turn when installing, you'll get the best possible connection to ensure you don't have any future problems.
This is the type of coupler you need, regardless where it's used in the wall. It's a shielded coupling. The one you linked to isn't permitted for in-wall use. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...-150/100372284
Agreed with the professionals. Also make sure that you cut only enough to make pipe as level as you can. I see in the pictures that there is a big chunk in the pipe. You need to square that up without taking to much off.
Hi,
Recently purchased a Moen shower kit to replace the much older and dated Moen hardware in the bathtub of our second bathroom. The house is 20 years old and am slowly trying to update it as much as possible without resorting to a full-blown renovation as my boys are all very young (and prone to destroying things).
I installed the shower head neck, shower head, water valve cover and handle without any issues. The Moen kit came with a threaded tub spout and since my 1/2 copper pipe does not have a male threaded end, ended up ordering a slip-on Moen 3839BN tub spout off of Amazon.
The Moen slip-on tub spout operates normally when in "tub" mode, but when I lift the diverter to transition to "shower" mode, I'm seeing water leaking underneath and towards the base of the tub spout indicating that water is getting passed the interior gasket. I tried tightening the Allen screw to no avail. Next, I used sandpaper to smooth out the copper pipe, but that did not work. Upon closer inspection, I realized the previous homeowner had overtightened the Allen screw of the original tub spout causing a deep indentation on the pipe. The indentation starts on the pipe 3/4" from the wall and it extends to 1" 1/8th's. Because of the indentation, the internal gasket of the slip-on tub spout is unable to seal around the full circumference of the pipe causing water to get passed it. To test if my theory was correct, I used plumbers tape to try to "fill up" the indentation. Once I did that, the leaking stopped entirely.
Questions I have:
1. Would using plumbers tape to fill out the indentation be a viable long-term solution, and would it be up to code?
2. Is there any other kind of material I could use to fill up the indentation (ex. lead-free solder) and smooth it out?
3. Any other recommendations I haven't thought of?
Thanks!
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I live in a bungalow. The central heating and hot water system is vented and pumped with a Y plan valve.
The H.W tank, which stands about 3 ft off the floor in a cupboard, has a couple of conventional brass draincocks on the attached pipework, one of which is on the hot pipe coming from the Y plan valve. This draincock has been dripping very slowly for some time but now I collect a cup of water in a few days so I think it needs attention, I guess the washer in the draincock has perished.
Does it require a draindown of all the central heating and H.W pipework in the loft to replace the draincock washer? Is it a job to be left to a plumber or is it one that a someone with basic DIY skill could do? I had plugged the draincock outlet but now I see it drips from around the close/open protrusion.
Advice would be appreciated.
12-25-22, 04:28 PM
