Greetings. I need to replace a cast iron (CI) sanitary tee that is leaking at the horizontal line. Can I replace it with an ABS tee? In the picture working up, it's CI coming out of the floor, a CI cleanout, the CI tee, a CI reducer, then ABS. The horizontal line is ABS threaded into the tee, going to the washer standpipe and a vent. Is there any reason I can't use ABS for everything, and connect it to the floor line with a no hub fitting? Any reason I should stick with CI?
Replace away, especially since it's all just coupled together. Just make sure the ABS vertical is well supported when you remove all the stuff below it so it doesn't shift downward and stress upper connections.
I think I'd replace all the cast iron; the cleanout, the san tee and the reducing fitting. Replace it all with ABS. I don't know why, but many areas, including where I live, don't sell ABS any longer, but ABS is clearly available to be ordered.
With very few exceptions, all of the fittings I find are all hubbed. When connecting hub to hub (the cleanout to the sanitary tee, for example), I assume a short piece of pipe is used to join them? This is what I do with sprinkler/PVC, at least.
Yes... try to make that short pipe as long as you reasonably can so that you can see some pipe between the two hubs. I would imagine you'd also want a short piece of pipe below your bottom hub for your shielded Fernco coupler, so that you are coupling straight pipe to straight pipe.
Be sure you are using either ABS or all purpose glue.
Thanks XSleeper. "try to make that short pipe as long as you reasonably can" - is that just to make sure the pipe is fully seated in the hub on either side?
I need to do some work on valves that have a slow leak. When shutting down the water, I noticed the main valve to shut the water down needs repair/replacement. I’m afraid to turn the handle as it may leak. Before having the town shut the water down, I want to make sure I’m ready to replace and don’t have leaks after. There are two pieces of copper pipe that screw into the valve. Those two pieces of pipe have a nut that screw them down. See below. My plan is to simply unscrew the two nuts, unscrew the two pipes (elbow piece and straight piece) from the valve, replace valve, screw in two pieces, tighten down the nuts. Done. Based on images below, does that seem correct? Is there a better way? Should I be putting tape on the two areas screwed down with the nuts? If not tape, should they be dry? Or? Any words of wisdom? Thanks.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1493/2bf0ae0b_cb74_4072_9c8b_4542fd7ebf06_9826f8996057d63be70f06da8e5ace260c0283a4.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1493/e673b668_8feb_45fb_ba81_8316054bf989_25417ffac4e563c982fa0d605360a4d7e179e8c2.jpeg[/img]
I am trying to install a disposal under a deep sink. I found a brand that is only 5 15/16" from the bottom of the sink to the horizontal centerline of the outlet. What is the minimum difference from the centerline of the outlet to the horizontal centerline of the drain pipe protruding from the wall so that water runs freely? I had read someplace that 1/2" would be sufficient, but I want to be sure we don't have standing water in disposal. thank you
01-07-23, 03:52 PM
