As far as I'm aware, no, it's not permitted. Wet vents can be used within the bathroom group, but since the laundry is outside the bathroom, I don't believe UPC/IPC allows it.
I would recommend a 2" drain down to the basement and tie in down there. Then at at least 42" high, tie into the vent to vent your new washer drain.
That looks like 1 1/2" pipe in the wall. You can't use it for several reasons. The biggie is that you cannot use that vent as a drain. And, a washer requires a minimum of 2" drain piping in addition to needing a trap and must have a vertical pipe 18-42" above the water level of the trap.
Go ahead and remove the strip of sheetrock along the bottom plate. It will have to come off anyhow when you repair the sheetrock.
I would take this opportunity to run a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the washer since you have the wall opened. It's a code requirement for new construction and since you've opened the wall to run plumbing you've technically lost "grandfathering". Your inspectors may let it slide but having the machine on it's own circuit is a good idea anyhow. You don't want to be tripping the breaker when you do laundry.
I will be putting the 2in discharge pipe along the outside of the drywall. I don't see anyway to get it into the wall at this point. The 1.5in pipe in the picture is a vent, how do I use this for the 2in discharge pipe vent? I know I'm asking a simple question but I'm not seeing it.
2
Also the pex I have installed how do I relax the coil in it. Thought of using a heat gun on low.
1. You may NOT. You must have a 2" or larger drain line all the way until it meets the main drain stack for the home.
You might be able to use the 1 1/2" vent pipe as a vent for your washer drain. First you need to find out what (how many) fixtures that vent is already venting. There are charts online that cover all this but a 1 1/2" vent can accommodate up to 8 "units" of venting. A clothes washer counts as three units. So, you need to verify that there are 5 or less units worth of fixtures connected to that vent line.
2. The best way is to uncoil it outside on a sunny day. It is best done before installation because you'll likely have to over bend in the opposite direction to get it to end up where you want.
Grab a hair dryer and you can probably get your installed pipe straightened enough that it won't rub on the sheetrock. Heat the inside of the curve you want to straighten. Then when the pipe is warm over bend it in the opposite direction by about how far it was bent the wrong way. Take the heat away and hold the pipe in the over bent position until it mostly cools. You can rub a wet rag over the pipe to cool it quickly.
If you are concerned about the kink at the pex elbows below your washer box, you can put a 2x4 horizontally behind them and fasten them with anchors. (Twin Talon or similar)
And I have no idea why you drew your 2" hole where you did... your 2" drain line should be going straight down to the basement within the stud bay directly below the washer box. (And if you can't do that for some reason, you should have put the washer on the right and the dryer on the left.) Assuming the washer IS going where your washer box is located, I'd plumb it like this...
Washer standpipe is 2" pipe no more than 30" tall, (as measured from your washer box) with a trap going to the left. Then you have minimum 4" of horizontal pipe left of the trap weir (called the trap arm) that dumps into a sanitary tee. Bottom of tee continues straight down to the basement. The top part of that tee would usually go straight up into the attic where it would then connect to the other vent line with an elbow, horizontal pipe pitched up 1/4" per ft to a sanitary tee. (As Pilot Dane mentioned, you can vent to your 1 1/2" provided your total DFU on that vent line does not exceed 8 units) But instead of going into the attic, you could tie it back in to the other vent a minimum of 6" above the flood line of the washer box, provided you cut out more drywall above it and drill a hole through the 1 stud to the right of the washer box in order to tie your 2" pipe back into the 1 1/2" vent. And you would reduce the 2" vent line to 1 1/2" before you get to the hole in your stud.
Can you move the 2 drain over a stud bay to the left?
2" pipe down to the basement into either a 90 degree long bend and tie into the main drain down there. Or use a combo wye and use the straight opening to add a plug to have somewhere to snake if needed.
Once it goes through the bottom plate, go up about 6-8", then add a sanitary tee. The side opening goes to a trap and up to the vertical standpipe, 18"-30", but higher than the top of the washer.
From the san tee, go up at least 42". Then 90 over through the stud and tie into the bathroom vent via an upside down sanitary tee.
I'm sure I can find a pic or drawing if the description doesn't make sense.
Zorfdt
Can you move the 2 drain over a stud bay to the left? Not going to work like that, if I did that then the pipe would come out in the ceiling, where I am placing it, it will come out in a cupboard.
See picture if I am understanding you.
Personally, I'd try to keep the horizontal 2" pipe and trap in the wall and come up to the right of the vent pipe with a pair of 45's. But what you have drawn is correct.
Unrelated: check the 14ga cable on the right most of the pic. It's stapled within 1.25" of the face of the stud and is likely to get hit by an errant drywall screw.
Folks:
I replaced my home's pressure regulator 10 years ago. Yesterday it started "singing" again. So I went to my local plumbing supply store and bought a replacement. It happens to be a Watts N45B m1. Anyway, got an exact replacement. Removed the old and was installing the new when, because of super close gaps, damaged the o-ring on one side the new regulator. It has a small, removable o-ring on both sides of the regulator so it can be compression fitted/replaced, etc.
So I wasn't down for the weekend, I inspected the previous unit and noticed both gaskets from that one are really good. Supple yet strong and not cracking. So I took one off of that one and put it on the new one. So basically I have a 10-year-old rubber o-ring on one end of the regulator and a brand new o-ring. Keep in mind my last unit was NOT leaking in the slightest. With new and used o-rings on the new regulator, I more carefully installed it and it doesn't leak a drop. All good.
[b]Super, simple question:[/b] Should I be worried that the older gasket may eventually fail? I don't mind taking things apart but not sure if I'm just being paranoid or if such gaskets easily can go 10 to 20 years, etc. Not even sure if I can get just a gasket. These regulators are $110 bucks.
We are converting a ground level deck into a paver patio and there is a gas line underneath the deck for the pool heater. The pool heater was broken and we have not used it but may replace it in the future so we intend to keep the gas line. Since the gas line would be buried by gravel and the patio contractor was suggesting we replacing them before they cover it with dirt and gravel. It is probably put in back in the 1990s and is painted iron. There is stuff flaking off upon touch (feels like paint residue, instead of normal rust). Is it a good idea to just replace them while at it? Thanks a lot.
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