Lost HOT H2O Pressure After Charging Tank

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  #1  
Old 07-11-01, 06:42 AM
goebelguzzler
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Question

My water pump was kicking in approx every 20-30 seconds when water was fully running (it kicks in when the storage tank goes down to 40 psi & stops @ approx 65 psi)which I have been told before that the storage tank needs to be re-charged. I turned off the water supply to the house, turned the water pump off & emptied the tank. I then pumped the storage tank to 25 psi (the person I talked to at the place where it was purchased told me 20)and turned the pump back on, which fill the tank until it reache 65 psi.
I then turned the supply back on to the rest of the house.
I now have very little hot water pressure throughout the house. First thing this morning, I turned it on for the first time since last night & it appeared normal for approx 5 seconds then gradually went down. The temperature is normal, just not much pressure.
What could be the problem??????
I did the same thing a little over a year ago & don't remember this problem.
It also appears that the water pump still kicks in more often than it should. What is normal for the duration between the pump kicking on? I don't know for sure, but the storage tank is approx 30 gallons (5 feet high & about a 30 inch diameter).
Sorry it's so long, but I need pressure & would like to get this fixed quickly.
Thanks all!!!
 
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  #2  
Old 07-11-01, 04:45 PM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
Posts: 10,952
Cool

Your tank pressure should be at, or two psi below, your pump cut-on pressure.
Your pump pressure switch seems to be set too high.
Most residential pumps are set 20 psi apart at 20-40 or 30-50 cut-on/cut-off.
What is the max pressure (per the manufacturer)for your pump?
Is your's set at 40-65? Are you sure that your presssure gauge is accurate?
Try re-setting the pressure to 20 or 30 in the tank, and re-setting the pump pressure switch to 20-40 or 30-50, and see if that doesn't solve the cycling and pressure problem.
Good Luck!


 
  #3  
Old 07-12-01, 05:49 AM
goebelguzzler
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Oldman, can you please clarify

Sorry, Oldman, but I need a little clarification.
I have only recharged the tank twice now so I don't understand much.
You stated that my tank pressure needs to be 2 psi < pump cut on-pressure.
Does that mean if I set the cut-on/cut-off to 30-50, I need to recharge the tank to 28 prior to filling with water?
Does re-setting the pump pressure just take adjusting some screws in the grey box (I know the setup, but I don't know the names) that clicks when the pump turns on & off? If so, how do I do that or are there alot of different styles out there?
If I re-set the pressure from 40-65 to 30-50, will I lose some pressure in my faucets? I don't feel I have the pressure now that I should & that may be why it is set that high. I have only lived there for 2.5 years & haven't monkeyed with it.
Last night I opened the spicket on the bottom of the Hot Water heater & blew out some water. I then got the hot water pressure back. Now I just don't have normal pressure in my kitchen. In the kitchen, I used to get stronger cold pressure than hot, but now it appears to be the same when I take the single handle faucet & move from far cold thru the middle all the way to far hot. I have hard water so I'm thinking it may be getting clogged. Would the faucet getting clogged with particles cause a single pressure throughout all temps?
Thanks, & I appreciate it!!
 
  #4  
Old 07-12-01, 07:06 AM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
Posts: 10,952
Cool

Yes, if you set the pressure switch at 30-50, the tank pressure should be 28 (or 30 max, depending upon the type of pressure tank).
You need to determine what optimum max psi that the manuf. says your pump is designed for (although you can set them higher). Depending upon the manuf., a residential 1/2-horse pump may be 20-40 and a 3/4-horse may be 30-50.
Re-setting the pump pressure switch (grey box):
Depending upon the type, there may be one spring-loaded pressure adjusting nut automatically factory pre-set 20 psi apart.
Or there may be two spring-loaded adjusting nuts (the larger will be for the cut-on, and the smaller one will be for the cut-off).
Turn them down to increase pressure and up to decrease pressure.
If you are uncomfortable working around open hot electrical contacts (of the pressure switch), just unplug or turn off the breaker to the pump. You need an accurate pressure gauge, and just keep adjusting it until you get it right. It isn't difficult.
If you adjust it with the power on when the pump is not running, be aware that as you screw down the cut-on nut that the pump will kick on at some point. Even though I know that it is going to happen, it makes me jump every time. LOL.
As far as your kitchen faucet, remove and clean out the aerator. That is the most likely cause of restricted water flow. (In fact, clean out all showerheads and aerators.)
If that doesn't do it, go to "Repair/Fix-It" above, look in the Plumbing section, find your type of faucet, and follow the illustrated directions of how-to repair it.
If we can help you, just come back and ask.
Good Luck!

 
  #5  
Old 07-12-01, 07:38 AM
goebelguzzler
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Thumbs up Thanks OldGuy

I really appreciate the help!!
I know exactly what you are talking about.
I just thought of a couple more questions.
How do I tell what size pump I have?
Where do I look?
If I have a 1/2 horse pump with the pressure at 65, will the pump have less life than if I had it set to 40?
Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 07-12-01, 07:44 AM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
Posts: 10,952
Cool

The pump should have a plate on it somewhere that has the manufacturer, hp, etc.
Yes, if a pump is set above its optimum operating pressures, it will usually shorten the life of the pump.
Good Luck!
 
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