Tap into iron 4" sewer pipe


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Old 04-14-24, 10:29 AM
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Tap into iron 4" sewer pipe

Got a bad shower clog, unable to snake it. I'm suspecting it's in the area pictured below. 2" going into 1 1/2" and back into 2". Would like to replace the entire section but not sure how to tap into that iron Y. Can I cut off the collar and attach 2" rubber adapter?


 
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Old 04-14-24, 12:34 PM
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Yes, you can attach to the old cast iron with a Fernco (rubber boot) type coupling.

I don't know what "collar" you are referring to. You want to keep the big, vertical Y fitting. Remove the 2" pipe from inside the Y. It's may be leaded in place so you'll have to chisel it out. Then use a rubber boot fitting to attach your new drain piping.
 
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Old 04-14-24, 12:43 PM
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The collar I'm talking about, and I apologize for not using correct terms, is the ring above the area marked "2" on the iron Y. The area below is 3" diameter, which should work for 3" to 2" coupling.


 
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Old 04-14-24, 01:52 PM
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No... you cannot cut into a cast fitting and you don't want to mess with that lead.
Cut at red or yellow.
If you want to mess with the lead you can cut at red or yellow and pull the piece out of the Y.
You can get a rubber insert that goes into the Y.

The easiest is to cut at the red line. You can use a rubber hub to connect the iron to the PVC.
Whatever you do.... be careful to not break the lead seal unless you are removing it.

You could also easily cut into the 2" PVC. Install a PVC Y. I'm showing the port facing down
but it would face directly away from the pipe (horizontal) with a screw in plug.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 04-14-24 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 04-14-24, 02:02 PM
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Welp, I already started cutting at the Y. I didn't want to keep any of that rusted 1 1/2" due to future clogs.
 
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Old 04-14-24, 02:06 PM
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Then when you are finished you will need to measure the diameter in order to get a rubber coupler that would fit over that.

Actually... a Fernco 3" pipe gasket may also work. It goes into the Y and the pipe goes into it.
 
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Old 04-14-24, 02:18 PM
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Yep, I measured Y with a caliper and it's very similar to 3" pipe diameter. So I ordered 3" to 2" coupler, 2" pipe and 45 degree elbow. Should I add a Tee for clean out?
 
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Old 04-14-24, 02:28 PM
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Definitely.
A Y will give you an opening as a cleanout. You can get a glue-in adapter and cap.
 
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Old 04-14-24, 02:41 PM
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That is the current plan of action...


 
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Old 04-14-24, 04:50 PM
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Put the cleanout Y just above the cast iron Y.
Make it easy to get to.
 
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Old 04-15-24, 08:34 AM
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Great success! This is first time working with cast iron and I think I got lucky that once I cut a small portion of the top ring, the rest of it broke off evenly around and I noticed movement of the lead packing, then I just pulled this nasty piece out and understood why I didn't get anywhere with the snake. Everything inside was packed solid. Very surprising, since it wasn't your usual hair-n-soap, but rather soil.





 
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Old 04-15-24, 01:20 PM
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Is the new clean out a Y or a T? If you ever have to open it when there is a clog downstream be ready for a massive water flow from the upstream pipe. I would have mounted it facing down.

There was a sideways clean out overhead like that on an almost horizontal run of pipe from my kitchen sink to the stack. Because of the low pitch it clogged frequently and I cursed the horizontal clean out that shot water across the room and in my face.

When I added a powder room nearby the stack was cut and I had a new kitchen drain pipe installed with a better slope and an upward clean out Y.
 
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Old 04-15-24, 02:58 PM
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Sorry I'm not understanding the difference. I'm assuming if there's a clog, water would gash out regardless if it was a Y or a Tee or if it was facing down. Luckily this connects to shower right above, so there wouldn't be too much water, since I'd siphon most of it out.
 
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Old 04-15-24, 03:35 PM
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The difference is where the water goes when you open it. Regardless of how it aims it is a mess.
 
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