Locating leak


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Old 06-11-24, 08:44 AM
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Locating leak

Pictured is a copper water line that runs thru my crawlspace to supply the kitchen above it.

There is a small leak at the picture elbow. I've used JD Water Weld extensively at both the upper and lower joints of the elbow, but it still drips. Any help in how to identify just where the crack is or how to proceed with the fix is much appreciated.



(joint in question is wrapped in bright-white [JD Water Weld] near center of bottom image)
 

Last edited by 333Matt; 06-11-24 at 08:46 AM. Reason: clarifying
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Old 06-11-24, 09:10 AM
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You have made things more difficult for yourself by using a Band-Aid. Because all that crap is now in the way I suggest cutting the pipe above and below the putty and replace the piping in between.

If replacing with copper you'll need some straight, rigid pipe and two 90 fittings. Then sweat/solder everything together. If you don't want to solder I would get two Shark-Bite fittings and a section of PEX tubing. The PEX is flexible enough that you won't have to mess with 90 fittings.
 
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Old 06-11-24, 02:29 PM
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Many ways to repair that.
Big question is..... without or without a torch.
Many DIY'ers have a torch and can make minor plumbing repairs.
If you don't or don't want to solder..... follow Dane's advice with Sharkbite to PEX fittings.
The fittings are a bit costly, available at the home improvement stores and are the easiest way to go.

This will give you some idea about the Sharkbite system.... Sharkbites
 
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Old 06-11-24, 04:45 PM
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Can I just get one of these? Might be a bit awkward being so long when the ends will be right next to each other.

This water line is crazy long. I suppose I shut off water and open the kitchen tap till it stops running. Lots of drainage?

Am I crazy thinking I could use my sawzall to cut that elbow out of there? Maybe I could make the gap between the ends a little longer, say 8" if I wanted to use the product I linked here...
 
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Old 06-12-24, 01:04 PM
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Never tried a Sawzall to cut the copper, but I have used a hacksaw. But the best way to cut copper I believe is to use a tubing cutter like the linked. You get a nice straight cut with the tubing cutter and that's important when you use Sharkbites.

Milwaukee 1/2 in. Mini Copper Tubing Cutter 48-22-4250 - The Home Depot

I don't know if that flexible pipe you linked to would be good in the long run. Maybe it would weaken.

I'm no expert for sure and I know I go overboard in terms of cost, but if it were me, and I wasn't going to solder, I would do like the pic. You can buy a short piece of copper pipe ( 2 ft. I think) and with a tubing cutter and the Sharkbites you could make the cuts and do the repair like the pic.

I think you would have enough room to connect the 2 90's with a short piece of pipe, but you would have to measure - it may not be doable. But measuring would tell you right away.

But it does require several Sharkbites, the copper pipe, and the cutter. Not the cheapest route. I would like it because it would more closely match the current configuration. Is that worth it and important? Maybe not. Is it the best way? Maybe not. But it looks OK to me - lol.

Just a thought. Good luck though!


 
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Old 06-12-24, 02:08 PM
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Might be a bit awkward being so long when the ends will be right next to each other.
It looks like you have a good bit of straight pipe on either side of the leaking elbows. You can cut the copper pipe further away so the longer flex pipe you linked will fit. Remember you can always cut off more pipe.

I'd cut the pipe on one end (don't forget to deburr before pushing on the bite fitting, it's very important). Then route the flex pipe through the wall where it needs to go. Then you've got a good idea where you need to cut the other pipe.

"I suppose I shut off water and open the kitchen tap till it stops running. Lots of drainage?"
Will you be repairing a hot or cold water line?
 
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