Kitchen sink drain line leak


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Old 08-01-01, 10:34 AM
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Question Kitchen sink drain leak

I have a leak in the drain line from my kitchen sink of my 30 year old house. I cut a hole in the back of my cabinet and found that a one and a half to two inch cast iron pipe goes through the drywall, which I also cut away, revealing the pipe goes to the left with a slight downslope through a notched out stud and into a tee fitting. The tee fitting leads up to a vent in the roof and down to the basement where it goes straight into the floor. The leak is where the slightly downsloping pipe meets the tee: a four inch long section of lead joins them and has a leaking hole at the bottom of it. I have temporarily patched it with a wrap of rubber secured with hose clamps. The downsloping section is more that two feet long, is unsupported, and doesn't seem very solid. What would be appropriate for a permanent fix?
 
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Old 08-01-01, 02:55 PM
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I would replace that 2' piece with PVC, if the old pipe is threaded (not soldered).
Install a threaded PVC fitting screwed into the galvanized tee. Use 2-3 flat wraps of teflon tape clockwise only on the PVC male threads.
After the fitting is installed, glue in the PVC pipe to it and make up the other end with a slip nut.
Dry fit it all together before gluing, etc. to make sure that it fits.
Good Luck!
 
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Old 08-02-01, 07:40 AM
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Thanks for the advice, though I may some difficulty since I don't think it's a threaded connection to the cast iron tee. Between the 2' piece and the tee is that lead(I think that's what it is) section. I don't know if the 2'piece goes through this (making it a sleeve) or if the lead is a bridge between the two. Whichever it is, it looks like the connection is soldered. Is there a way to replace a soldered connection with PVC?
I am certainly willing to call a plumber if there is a torch involved.
 
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Old 08-02-01, 10:20 AM
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If it is soldered, then it is going to have to be removed, and a new piece re-soldered, with a torch.
Call a plumber, if you don't want to use one.
Good Luck!
 
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Old 08-07-01, 07:04 AM
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Oldguy,
Thanks for the help. It turns out I didn't understand the exact situation. The plumber came and fixed it up for me.
Here's what it was according to the plumber. The arm(downsloping 2' piece) was a lead pipe connected to the cast iron tee with a brass section in between using a "wipe joint" which appeared to me as the 4 inch lead section. The arm developed a stress crack at the joint. The plumber cut off the arm, leaving 2 inches of the brass section attached to the tee. He used a "hub joint" which is a rubber sleeve surrounded by stainless steel band that clamps on. inside one end of the sleeve is a pvc collar, which he bonded to a new pvc arm. The other end of the hub slipped over the brass stub and the hub was tightend down. Everything looks good and solid. He said he could remove the solder of the wipe joint from the brass, but it wasn't required and he didn't want to use a torch inside the wall if he didn't have to.
So IF I had known everything he knew when I encountered the problem, I could have fixed it myself. But I didn't know what I was looking at exactly. Just goes to show you the experts aren't just paid for skills, but knowledge.
Thanks again for the help.
Burdman
 
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Old 08-07-01, 09:30 AM
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That's what we pay those pros for...experience, knowledge and expertise.
Sometimes, they make it seem so easy that it kills me, being a rabid D-I-Yer. LOL
 
 

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