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Old 08-13-01, 01:31 PM
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To whom it may concern, maybe old guy or Doug M. My husband passed away in Jan. 2001, leaving our home one third the way finished. I need to know how to pound a shallow well, and then get it to the outside wall for yard care and up keep. I live in the upper peninsula of Michigan and have what is known as a Michigan basement half sand/dirt half cement. I am born and bred in Boston and am out of my element. The love of my life did everything, but I feel compelled to finish in and for his memory and our three sons. The oldest is away at college and the two at home are a great comfort, and are willing to learn as am I, one is 15 and one is just 9. I realize this is probably far fetched to think I can finish a home, but if you'll help with advice, guidence and patience, I'm willing to try my hardest. I do not have the luxury of being able to hire it done. My husband and I owned a little sandwhich shop and worked together for our 20 year marriage, so I've lost my livelyhood. I have a part time job to try to augment our situation and am working the graveyard shift, so I'm still accessable to my children, and can do things in the house.
Thank you in advance.
Vikki
 
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Old 08-13-01, 04:32 PM
Mike Swearingen's Avatar
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To drive a shallow well (25' or less from bottom of well point to pump for most 1/2-hp or 3/4-hp residential pumps):
1. Get a well permit from your local Health Department. If you're on a septic system, the well must be at least 100' away from any part of it. They will work with you on placement of the well, and the depth that you should drive it (here in NE NC, we usually drive shallow wells with three 1-1/4" X 5' galvanized pipe joints (threaded on both ends) and one 1-1/4" well point (3', 4', or 5' length point...the longer the better).
2. You will need to:
a) borrow a well-driver (usually a home-made T with a weight at the cross section of the T...about 3'-4' handle X 3' part that goes down into the pipe you're driving),
b) buy a heavy duty Schedule 40 (black pipe) collar to drive on to prevent thread damage, or make up a driver connection in lieu of the S40 collar of two regular 1-1/4" collars on both ends of a galvanized 6" nipple,
c) borrow a hand pitcher pump to pump the sandy water off of the well before attaching it to your pump.
d) buy or borrow two pipe wrenches (18" to 24").
Materials:
1. A 1/2-hp (usually 20-40 cut-on/cut-off psi) or 3/4-hp (30-50 psi) pump (both can be wired 110v or 220v). Size depends on end usage.
2. A pressure gauge and a pressure tank and a short 3/4" galvanized nipple to screw it directly onto the pump head.
3. A "90" 1-1/4" galvanized elbow from the top well pipe, a 1/1/4" check valve, and the 1-1/4" galvanized fittings to connect the 90 and check to the pump head.
3. A 110v gfci outdoor outlet double receptacle and weatherproof outlet box and cover, and enough gray PVC electrical conduit and fittings to reach from the well to the basement, and enough 12/2 w/ground wiring and a seperate, dedicated 20 amp breaker for the electrical panel. The wire will run from the panel to the pressure switch on the pump. Check the local Electrical code with the Building Inspection Department for guidance, and you'll need a permit and inspection for this, also.
4. Teflon tape for ALL threaded connections. Wrap 2-3 flat turns clockwise only around all final threads (you don't need it on driving collar threads, since they're no tthere to hold water).
5. 3/4" PVC pipe and connections to the base of your home to attach a hose spigot, or you can attach one or two hose spigots directly at the pump.
6. A pump house or weatherproof cover of some type to protect the pump pressure switch and motor. You can get insulated fiberglas "rocks" made for the purpose that cost
about $250.
To drive the point and joints:
A. Tighten (tight as you can) on the drive collar, and drive the point.
B. Remove drive collar, wrap point threads with teflon tape, and tighten on a regular galvanized collar.
C. Tighten in the first joint of pipe, and install drive collar on top.
D. Keep on driving until the top of the last joint is about 12"-14" above ground.
E. Tighten on pitcher pump and pump sandy water off of well until it runs clear.
F. Set pump on cinderblock(s) and hook it all up.
This is NOT an easy job, even driving in sand, but you and your older sons can do it.
Hope that this gives you the basics. Find a friend that knows about this, and get them to help you, if you can.
If we can help you, just come back on this same thread and ask.
Good Luck! Mike

 
 

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