How can I determine what pressure settings should be?


  #1  
Old 10-25-01, 12:39 PM
Mel also
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I was recently asked by a female fellow employee if I knew anything about water pumps and tanks. Sadly, I haven't been exposed to these systems until a couple of years ago, and so far I'm not having problems. She was saying that her water pressure is low so a neighbor came over and recharged the captive air tank to the highest setting listed on the tank. She said after that the pump starting cycling on and off. The neighbor then released some air and the cycling stopped but the pressure is still low. I read thru the different questions and see that it could be a bunch of different things but it does sound that there might be sediment clogging the exit pipe. I did go over to look at her water system and noticed that the contact points on her pressure switch were all corroded and pitted. I recommended to her that she first change the switch which is relatively inexpensive. I went to Sears and found that there are a variety of pressure switches ranging from 20 to 40, 30 to 50 and 40 to 60 psi. The packaging states that the existing switch should be replaced with a like switch. Question is... how do I know what type of pressure switch is installed on her system. This was originally her mother's house, so she hasn't been able to find any documentation on anything.
Any and all help appreciated.....
 
  #2  
Old 10-25-01, 01:31 PM
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Look for a plate on the pump itself. It may state the manufacturer's recommended settings. That will tell you which switch.
If it is a 1/2-horsepower, it will most likely be 20-40 psi, if it is a 3/4hp, it will most likely be 30-50.
A residential water pump is usually not higher than that.
Use a tire pressure gauge and check the air pressure on the tank. It should be two psi below the pump cut-on pressure (18 or 28, respectively).
If it is too low, air it up with a bicycle pump or a portable air tank or compressor. If it is too high, bleed it off.
I think that you need to replace that pressure switch, if it's pitted and corroded. It's probably the problem.
Unplug or turn the breaker off to the pump, connect the wires one at a time just like they're connected to the old switch (black to positive or hot, white to neutral or negative, and bare to green screw or ground).
Use 2-3 wraps of teflon tape clockwise only on the threads of all bare metal male threaded fittings with the switch.
Good Luck!
Mike


 
  #3  
Old 10-25-01, 04:39 PM
Mel also
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Thanks Mike..... I've been reading some of your answers to the other related question. I'll relay this to my friend. I'll keep you posted.....
 
  #4  
Old 11-01-01, 06:31 AM
Mel also
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Mike... (Old Guy...)
I wanted to keep you posted about what is going on.
I had a chance to get a 2nd look at the above mentioned pump/tank system. There is an inline pressure gauge on the system, so I opened a spigot until the pump kicked on. The pump kicks on at about 35 lbs and kicks off about 54 lbs. From this and from what you had mentioned earlier, I think the pressure switch is a 30-50.
I also noticed that attached to the fitting that comes out of the tank is a black flexible tubing clamped on. At the other end there is a "T" with more black tubing attached to that leading over to the house supply lines. The leg part of the T has a piece of the same flexible tubing connected to the pump supply line. My question is if this a standard set-up? Is the flexible hose in there for a reason? If this is a preferred method of installation, couldn't the flexible hose be replaced with those flexible copper extentions that are used to hook up hot water heaters to the supply lines?
Oh... by the way, the pump is a submersible so I didn't see any plates and my friend can't find any documentaion regarding the pump or tank.
Thanks for your help..... later....
 
  #5  
Old 11-01-01, 07:22 AM
Mike Swearingen's Avatar
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Mel,
Yep, a 30-50 pressure switch. The old one must be adjustable, and someone has adjusted it upward about 5 psi, which is o.k., although above the manufacturers recommended psi.
What you described with the black tubing connections is a standard setup.
You usually use flexible plastic tubing or high-pressure (200 psi) red rubber hose for those connections to absorb the water pressure fluctuations and vibrations of the pump, pipes, etc. (I use the hp red rubber hose with hose clamps on my pump setup.)
I wouldn't use the copper water heater connections. The vibration might eventually cause the connections to leak.
Keep up the good work. Later.
Mike
 
  #6  
Old 11-01-01, 07:40 AM
Mel also
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Mike,
Good point on the vibration.....
Thanks for the info.....
 
  #7  
Old 11-09-01, 10:54 AM
Mel also
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Hey "OldGuy", guess what I found out.......
I replaced the pressure switch for my friend last w/e and when I pulled the new switch out of the packaging, I noticed a white sticker on the inside of the cover. It had all sorts of information including the pressure settings for that particular switch. I looked inside the old switch cover, lo and behold there it was, molded into the cover..... 30 - 50 lbs. It didn't stand out like the new sticker did but there it was...... Did an ole Homer Simpson imitation..... DOUGH! I thought it a bit amusing after a while. Thanks for you help...... Seems her low water pressure was due to a dirty filter feeding into the water softener.......
 
 

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