Help with adjusting well pressure switch

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  #1  
Old 03-12-02, 02:40 PM
PCerra
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Question Help with adjusting well pressure switch

Seeking wisdom......

For a while we have been living with gaps in our water supply. Meaning when the shower or faucets are running the flow stops for a second until the well pump kicks on. I increased the pressure on the cut off (smaller stem on the switch turned cw) and it appears to be better. I have been reading some of the forums and it appears that the cut on and cut offs are factory set. If that is the case I probably should not have fooled with the adjustment.

If the switch is a 30-50 should my tank pressure be 30? That is what the gage currently shows. I am not sure what the switch ratings indicate. I am assuming a 30-50 means the cutoff is 50 and the cut on is 30. If that is the case then should I adjust the switch to read 50 PSI on the tank? Why are there 2 switch ratings 20-40 and 30-50? Seems like one size should fit all.

Anyway I would like to tune this system up once and for all. Can someone tell me what procedure to follow?

Any help is appreciated?

PS. How does a pitless adapter work?


Pat
 
  #2  
Old 03-12-02, 07:39 PM
Mike Swearingen's Avatar
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If you have your own well and pump, you should go visit Ron (Pumpman) Peeks' well and pump site at www.peekspump.com and www.jessstryker.com for excellent tutorials on wells, pumps, irrigation systems, etc.
You will find much more detail there (they're pros, I'm not), but just for preliminary info (what I know, or think I know...lol):
Most 1/2-hp residential pumps ar pre-set at 20-40 psi cut-on/cut-off, and most 3/4-hp residential pumps are pre-set at 30-50 psi cut-on/cut-off.
If the pressure switch has a single spring-loaded nut, the cut-on/cut-off will be factory pre-set 20 psi apart. If it has two spring-loaded nuts, the larger will be for the cut-on, and the smaller for the cut-off adjustments. They may come factory pre-set at 20-40 or 30-50.
Turn the nuts down (clockwise) to increase pressure and up (counter-clockwise) to decrease pressure.
A bladder type pressure tank should be set two psi below the cut-on pressure (i.e. 18 or 28, respectively). If it's too high, bleed it off. If it's too low, air it up with a bicycle pump or portable air tank or compressor.
Bladder-type pressure tanks will be pre-charged that way.
When checking the tank air pressure with a tire gauge, be sure that the power to the pump is off, and the water pressure has been drained down before testing for the 2 psi below. The tank pressure will increase to cut-off pressure, of course, when the pump cuts off.
Good luck!
Mike
 
  #3  
Old 03-13-02, 07:55 AM
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Help with adjusting well pressure

A pitless adapter is made up of three parts: the threaded adaptor, nut, and rubber seal. The adapter is fitted through a hole in the well casing, with the rubber gasket on the inside of the casing. The nut is installed and tightened on the outside of the casing to form a seal. The pump drop pipe is then threaded into the inside of the adapter. On the outside of the casing, the piping to the pressure tank is threaded into the adapter. It's purpose is to provide a sealed exit from the well casing.
On the pressure switch issue, the taller of the two adjustments will adjust both the cutin and cutout pressures. One full turn of the nut will usually increase pressure about 4 psi. If the cutin/cutout pressure is factory set at 30/50, turning the nut one full turn will make those settings approx. 34/54. The shorter one will adjust the cutout only. Since these switches are set to provide a 20 psi differential between cutin and cutout, you shouldn't adjust the small nut unless it is absolutely necessary. Adjusting it will affect the differential setting.
Best regards,
Ron
R.L. Peeks Pump Sales
www.peekspump.com
 
  #4  
Old 03-13-02, 08:30 AM
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Thanks, Ron!
I'm always learning something.
Mike
 
  #5  
Old 03-13-02, 06:53 PM
PCerra
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Thanks Mike and Ron!

Here are a couple more questions if you don't mind;

I believe that I have a 3/4 HP Jacuzzi pump if I remember correctly (although we built the house a couple years ago the well has been in about 10 years). If that is the case I think I am hearing that the switch should be a 30-50. If that is correct should the pressure on my gauge read 50PSI when it is full? Then the tank will recover when the pressure gets to 30 and the bladder should be set to 28 unloaded.

I there any harm running it at 20-40? Will that make the pump last longer?

One more question;

With the pitless adapter, how do you pull the pump up if it goes bad? My adapter is below the frost line about 5 feet below ground (I live in upstate NY). That poly pipe that the pump hangs on does not seem to be very flexible.

Ron, I enjoyed your site.

Thanks again,

Pat
 
  #6  
Old 03-13-02, 08:00 PM
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Help with adjusting well pressure switch

Hi Pat,
Glad you enjoyed the site.
It will not hurt your 3/4 hp pump to run it at 20/40. If all is working well at that pressure there's no need to change it.
There should be a safety rope tied to the pump that you can use to support the pump while you dis-assemble the pitless adapter. You'll need to dig down to it, remove the piping from the outside of it and take the nut off. You should be able to pull the pump up until you can get a hold of the piping.
The pump and piping could be quite heavy especially if the pump is set pretty deep. If you're not sure you can handle it, you should use a professional pump installer who should have the proper equipment to do the job. These things can really become a safety issue, so you'll need to be careful!
Best regards,
Ron
www.peekspump.com
 
 

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