do-it-yourself fountain for a farm pond?


  #1  
Old 05-16-04, 06:30 AM
mnfred
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Unhappy do-it-yourself fountain for a farm pond?

Every year water meal takes over my 1-acre pond. Chemical treatment is outrageously expensive and is not guaranteed to work. This little free-floating plant likes calm conditions so I'm confident that agitating the water with a fountain will at least keep it at bay. Of course there are other benefits of aerating with a fountain as well.

My question is, are there any clever pond owners out there who have rigged up a powerful fountain on a shoestring. The companies that sell pumps and fountains want at least $800 dollars. I just can't be convinced that spraying water into the air is so expensive.

Thanks for any help. I sure don't want a pea green pond again this year.

mnfred
 
  #2  
Old 05-16-04, 01:49 PM
Bugalou
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I know what you mean about the price on those things..I have an fountain aerator for my 1 acre pond that cost 1500 bucks and that doesn't include running the electric to it from the house..The only reason I bought it was because my fish were dying in the hot summer months from lack of oxygen in the water, doesn't seem to do much for controlling my floating weed problem ..I don't know what that stuff is called but it has like long hanging roots and it takes over the pond, it stings too like a jelly fish(gave me red welts)...I put in 3 grass carp last summer at the recommendation of the local water management guy( had to get permits to do this) and he said it usually takes a season or two for results..

Bug
 
  #3  
Old 06-06-04, 04:26 AM
mnfred
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Duck weed?

Sounds like duckweed. What part of the country are you from? I'm hoping a fountain will at least push the water meal to the shore and make the pond look a little better. I found a locally made fountain system that a fish hatchery uses and they sell for ~$500. I'm planning to pick one up Monday. Hope it works!

MNFred
 
  #4  
Old 04-10-07, 08:52 PM
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How did the $500 pump work out for you

I am planning on buying one too, but they are so expensive
 
  #5  
Old 04-11-07, 06:45 AM
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A fountain will do nothing to address the issues of water meal or duck weed in ponds. Chemical control is recommended but can be cost prohibitive. An invasive and effective measure is to drain the pond and dredge it.

See: http://www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/APM/APM-2-W.pdf
 
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Old 04-11-07, 12:02 PM
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twelvepole, very good article
 
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Old 04-13-07, 07:51 PM
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I've gone/going through the same problems. First I had duckweed on my pond. I built a mechanical harvester and removed tons & tons of it (makes great compost). Once I thought I was winning the duckweed battle waterfern started to take over and then finally watermeal...

I don't think you can aggitate a pond engough to discourage these invasive plants.

Most ponds, including mine, that have a duckweed or watermeal problem are in the woods or have a lot of trees around or possibly farm runoff puting a lot of fertizier in the water. Basically the blooms only happen in ponds that have too many nutrients. You can buy all the chemicals but the problem will probably return if you do not address the underlying problem (too many nutrients flowing in, thick black muck layer...)

Sonar (fluoridone) does work well on duckweed, waterfern and watermeal. If you are trying to kill watermeal you need the maximum (90 ppb) or possibly 1.5 times the maximum concentration. It is VERY expensive but shop around. There is a wide range of prices. I've seen quarts of Sonar from $533 to $795.

Reward (diquat) works well on duckweed and waterfern, but you have to spray the plant to kill it. If one plant survives it will come back so you have to be vigilent.
 
  #8  
Old 05-22-07, 04:23 PM
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Duckweed

Owner of a 2.5 acre pond with no moving water except for large rain falls I had the same problem with duckweed. I had a rather large die off of fish 14 inch crappie and smaller bass by the hundreds to be exact. I went back to using Diuron or Karmex DF for control. A small amount distributed on a rainy day works great and you are looking at a broad spectrum kill of EVERYTHING plant life in the pond. WORD OF CAUTION, Karmex is not labeled for water use although I did find that it is approved for use in Texas for commercial catfish farm. I can apply once a year and the residual is good for the rest of the summer. I have tried the natural approach IE grass carp and a fountain with nothing but a loss of fish due to duckweed covering the whole pond. I have tried diquat but it will only kill what you spray and you cannot get everything it will grow back faster than you can kill it.
Finally talked to the chemical control guy who I bought the diquat from and he told me to use Karmex. Having owned the pond for 28 years I have used Karmex of 25 of those years and the previous owner used Karmex before me.
Cost the Diquat cost me $350 to try to kill the duckweed with no success not to mention the hundreds of fish that died off that summer due to oxygen starve off. Karmex $27.00 for a bad that will treat for two years and my pond is rather large.
 
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Old 05-24-07, 05:17 PM
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All of these problems (as with most lake/pond problems) can be checked by nutrient control. All plants thrive on sunlight, water, and nutrients. If we starve the plants of any one of these limiting factors, we can control them. Simply dumping chemicals into your water feature is not the answer. As these chemicals kill the plants, the plants fall to the bottom of the lake thus increasing the bio-load (nutrients) of the lake and therefore perpetuating the algae problem. By the way, the same goes for barley straw. I would suggest that if you are having a problem with excessive aquatic vegetation, there is probably a nutrient source in your watershed (i.e. animal feces, lawn clippings, leaves, etc.) that is getting into the water. I recommend controlling this by diverting waterways that carry these nutrients to your lake. The next step is planting wetland plants around the littoral areas of your pond to filter out nutrients. If these two options don't work or are not an option, the next step is sub-surface aeration and possibly bio-augmentation (beneficial bacteria). Sub-surface aeration is the best at providing oxygen to the beneficial aerobic micro-organisms that live at the bottom of you pond and consume nutrients. In fact, these critters consume nutrients about 3 times faster than algae can. This will also help eliminate low dissolved oxygen problems such as fish kills and odors. There are systems out there that can treat up to a surface acre with as little as 1/3 horse power. Check out NO ADVERTISING IN FORUMS.
 

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  #10  
Old 09-12-07, 09:59 AM
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Digger02,
I want to use the Karmex as well, but we have oak trees around the pond. Have you seen any stress to the trees with the usage of Karmex?
We've paid $1800 to a pond management company and the duckweed and watermeal have never looked healthier!
Not sure how much to use for a 3/4 acre pond.
Thanks
 
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Old 09-24-07, 10:14 PM
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I have land with a pond on it, that I hope to build on soon. I've had it for a year and a half, and I too get some sort of growth on it. At least now I can research better.

I do have runoff from the hill above it, which is somewhat clear for about 100', then woods for about 75'. Plus the berm is on 2 sides and tree lined. Guess I'll try to get those leaves out, as there is alot in there. No fish, but frogs out the wazoo.

As far as a fountain, I had planned on one to keep down the misquitos (that has to be spelled wrong), and for looks. Planning a small dock too, but I digress. Has anyone tried a small solar panel? I thought I might get one with enough juice for the pump, and let it shut down at night. Of done some small solar things, and it seems to work well.
 
  #12  
Old 06-14-09, 04:05 PM
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where should i be able to purchase Karmex product
 
 

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