Pool heater pilot problem

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  #1  
Old 06-09-04, 09:03 PM
forenplayer
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Pool heater pilot problem

I have a swimming pool gas water heater.I tryed to start it after last winter for the first time.So i pressed pilot knob all the way down for 30 seconds,flame started right away,then as as soon as i turned the knob to "on" position,flame went out.I cleaned all the contacts,tryed same thing for about 7 times,same thing,flame stays on when knob is in "pilot" position,goes out in "on" position.Thermocouple is about a year old,i used the heater mayby 6 times last year.Any suggestions?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-10-04, 08:45 AM
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The most common cause is a short, either in the control wiring or in the gas vcalve.

You could try disconnecting the two control wires (NOT the 2 wires from the new Thermocouple) from the gas vale and see if it then stays lit in the on possition. If it does, there's a short somewhere in the wiring. If it still goes out, there's "probably" a short inside the gas valve.
 
  #3  
Old 06-10-04, 12:43 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
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Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
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Wink

Take the T/C out and take it with you and get a new one. just like it. Make sure and clean the pilot Venturi out good also so you have a good flame on it. I dont think you have a powerpile or millivolt set up. If you do, a new thermopile should make the valve work just fine.

ED
 
  #4  
Old 06-12-04, 08:04 AM
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Hello: forenplayer

Pool and or Spa heaters use pilot generators to produce the DC electrical energy to run all the electrical systems in the heater. The part is the round element inside the pilot assembly.

The pilot generator is not a thermocouple. A pilot generator produces more current than a T-Couple. The PG (Pilot Generator) will have two wire leads extending out of it and they are attached to the gas control valve.

The pilot must have all blue flames and the PG has to be fully encircled by pilot flames for it to be hot enough to produce enough electrical current (DC Volts) to operate the pressure switch and or flow switch, (all in one part) the gas control valve, etc.

A dirty pilot flame is often the cause of the problem you are describing. Some pilot assemblies are easy to clear and easily accessable. Others not always so but in either case, the pilot assembly cannot be dirty, dusty, rusted, restricted, plugged up etc, etc, etc.

Has to be a clean pilot assembly producing a hot and all blue flame or the pilot assembly will have to be removed, most likely and cleaned out totally. In most cases total pilot assembly has to be removed to ensure it is totally cleaned.

Once that is ensured (pilot assembly cleared and cleaned, all blue pilot flames, full flames around the PG) next step is to test by repeating the process you have already done and explained.

If all the above is done and it all fails to obtain the desired results, next and least expensive attempt to fix the problem is replacement of the PG. They do not last forever, even when recently replaced and especially when the pilot is turned off for extended periods of time. In some cases brief time spans.

If a new PG is installed, is installed correctly and the same problem exists, than it is time to suspect the gas control valve and or a possible, but not as likely, an electrical short in the DC voltage system, etc.

If there is a possible short in the gas control valve, remove the part. Take it to any local pool and parts store for testing. Not all of these places test controls but some do and some will while others will not. Check around.

Gas control valves are not repairable, for the most part. A new replacement is likely. Not too expensive but replacing it without knowing if all other systems are okay will not solve the problem either.

A continuity tester is also helpful to test the pressure switch. Pump must be running and gas control valve turned to pilot position or off. This will prevent accidental burner turning on which must not happen while you are that close to an appliance of that btu rating. Danger lurks. Use caution.
 
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