Heater replaced and still not heating


Old 08-29-04, 07:17 AM
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Angry Heater replaced and still not heating

Help!!!! I had the tech out and he was reading 11.5 amps on a balboa panel which is a catalina montery tub 5 yrs old. Problem started when drained and refilled I first had an SN3 then SN1 then OH and the tub only heated a few degrees the water wasn't over 70 degrees. Shut down the power and restarted the next day and controls were working normal but took 14 hours to
increase 5 degrees. Thats when tech was scheduled and did the readings and
discovered a burned area on the left side of the panel box near the ground wires. We replaced the heater and 2 ground wires and 2 white wires that were burnt that appeared to be laying on the heater post that was burnt off.
Maybe a powere surge ect.... caused this problem as in the beginning as the
gfi was tripping in the beginning. Now at the moment controls are working
normal but water only heated 2 degrees in 10 hours went from 53 to 55 degrees. I can't believe I need a new control box if everything works fine except the heater, blowers, jets, clock, temp reading, filter mode ect all present correct readings on panel. The element on the heater looked like new
except the posts were burnt or corroded as half the threads on the post where the large nut goes wasn't there. Hope someone can help me as I may
be heading for a 400.00 panel replacement...OUCH.
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Old 09-01-04, 03:16 PM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 344
Are you getting power to the heating element?

If 'no', are you getting power to the relay?

Find the relay and push down on the relay armature, it should move a bit and send power to the heating element.

Exercise extreme care; use an insulated tool to push down on the armature of the relay.

There is a chain of devices that result in the heating element getting power.

You have a power relay.
You have a flow control switch.
You have a thermostat.

The flow control switch will allow the thermostat to control the power relay only if the water is flowing.
Old 09-04-04, 05:45 AM
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Thanks Steve,
I'll give it a go. I hope this will narrow down my problem.
Old 09-07-04, 09:04 AM
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Seems as though all relays are working as when I shut down the power and
restart they are all moving......
Hmmmmmm ?????
Old 10-16-04, 10:56 AM
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Gallon of gas and a match!

Well let's try this again. I just posted a reply to this and it locked up my system and erased itself! Bummer dude!

I just happen to be a Certified Master Spa Tech., an Authorized warranty tech. for both Catalina And Balboa.

Steve has a good answer, but it is irrelevant because the outcome is still the same, the tub is broken. It doesn't matter "WHY" the board is broken, the fact, is that unless you are savy enough to replace the "soldiered in" part on the board yourself, you are just back at step one... you have a broken tub.

Also you can kill yourself if you touch the wrong thing in that control box, so BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL IN THERE!!!

Catalina is famous for voiding people's warranties if they find out an unauthorized person so much as took the cover off the control box, so keep your mouth shut about working on your tub while it is in the warranty period, or you may quickly lose the warranty.

As for your frustration with having to replace a $400 board.... The best method for testing ANY tub problems is too eleminate ALL off board problems, and then since you can't fix a bad board in the field anyway, replace the board.

This is actually MUCH more simple than the old way, but it creates a major consumer problem, which you have become familiar. What used to be a simple $40 fix for an individual part, has become a $400 repair because ALL of the individual parts are welded together onto the same circuit board.

What you DO need is a common $10 "circuit tester" with 240 Volt capacity. You have a Catalina, so I assume you are on the West coast. Try Fred Meyers or a local hardware store. A cheap continuity tester might be helpful as well, but you won't need it for this problem.

The good thing is that the warranty is almost over for your tub so you will have more options available to you. AND it may be a bit cheaper than $400.

Once you have the Circuit tester, contact me. My email is:

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