Problems with Teledyne LAARS Series 1


  #1  
Old 07-13-05, 03:54 PM
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Problems with Teledyne LAARS Series 1

Greetings;

I discovered this website in my attempt to find a troubleshooting guide or a diagnosis procedure for my LAARS EPC heater that no longer works. The unit is dead when we tried to start her for this summer season. The heater won't do anything when we turn on the switch. No sign of life.

I am pretty handy, *BUT*, not when it comes to electronics. So, if a kind sole decides to help me out, please guide me in simple terms. I do own an inexpensive multimeter, which I think I'll need to use.

A quick word on background which may shed some light on the possible problem. The heater started acting up last summer when we had to flip the on/off switch many-many times, in order for her to eventually light up and *stay* on. She would start for only a second, then die. We would repeat the on/off routine, she would fire and die, until about 20-30 cycles of this, then she would stay on.

Where do I start and what do I do?

A couple of pics on the below links.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/entani...b1.jpg&.src=ph

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/entani...87.jpg&.src=ph

Thanks in advance for all tips.

_Maz
 
  #2  
Old 07-13-05, 07:59 PM
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first off, check your transformer , if you don't have 24 vac on the low voltage side , check to see if you have high voltage to the transformer, and remember the transformer can be wired 120 vac or 220 vac some times the transformer is wired 220 vac and one leg on the breaker is tripped, the transformer should be connected to the load side of your time clock,
if the the transformer is putting out 24 vac, follow the red wire it may have an in-line fuse in it [ black in color ] if it does testing the fuse is pretty srtaight foward, follow the red wire down to the front of the heater jacket the area around the gas valve , there will be a white ceramic " fuseable link "
you should have 24 vac in and 24 vac out . post back when your through with this part.

steve
 
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Old 07-14-05, 01:28 PM
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Maz
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Steve, thank you kindly for your reply.

* I didn't find any 24VDC downstream from the transformer.
* I loosened the transformer and checked for VAC going into the transformer. There was none.
* The wire bundle inside the flex conduit, going into the heater from the timer, contains 5 wires. 1 Green, 2 blue, 2 brown. The 2 brown wires connect to 2 black and red wires behind the transformer. That's where I checked for VAC.
* I opened the timer box and checked the other end of the 2 brown wires, and got 214 VDC. Now I am puzzled.
* I disconnected the 2 brown wires and checked for continuity. There was none. I used a simple light bulb tester.
* I disconnected the conduit ends and all wires are intact.
* I either have broken wires inside the conduit, which I highly doubt, or I am doing something incorrect. Again, I have phobia when it comes to electronics.

Thanks and looking forward on what to do next ... Maz
 
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Old 07-14-05, 07:13 PM
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Hi Maz, try to follow me , first off either use a multimeter , or a voltage meter to check for 220 vac , not a light as a light is not accurate,

the two brown wires that connect to the red and black wires on the transformer , tell me the transformer is wired 220 vac the white/red and white/black should be wired togeather , you need to trace the two brown wires back to there point of orgin [ time clock ? ] you should have 220 vac when you connect your meter to each brown wire if so you should have 220 vac at the transformer where the two brown wires connect to one red and one black , yes / no ?


steve
 
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Old 07-14-05, 09:38 PM
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Hi Steve;

Ignore my previous post. My failing eyes didn't help the testing. I am using a multimeter.

New update:

Yes, I am getting 232 VAC behind the transformer at the two brown wires where they connect to the two red and black wires of the transformer.

Yes, the two white/red and white/black wires, behind the transformer are wired (capped) together.

I have removed the transformer since I am not getting 24 VDC at the output (only 0.04 volts), thinking that it is obviously the transformer that has gone bad.

What kind of walk-in store should I look for to find a replacement transformer, tomorrow?

Steve, thanks again for staying with me on this.

_Maz
 
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Old 07-15-05, 04:14 PM
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save yourself a headache and go to a pool / spa supply store, and buy a transformer for any pool / spa heater as they are all compatable bolting them in place may present a small challenge, you can do it.

steve
 
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Old 07-16-05, 09:40 PM
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I bought an exact replacement transformer, installed it, and much to my disappointment I am still not getting 24 VDC output from the new transformer.

Transformers are simple devices. What are the chances that the new transformer would be bad out of the box?

Can I be doing something wrong?

Somebody give me a clue here, please.

_Maz
 
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Old 07-17-05, 05:23 PM
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the two low voltage wires comming out of the transformer, one should be yellow the other either yellow also , or red, this is where you should take your reading,connect one lead from your multimeter to one wire and the other lead to the other wire, make sure your meter is on vac , not d.c. and your meter needs to be set higher than 28 vac if its a digital , analog of course wouldn't matter. also on some digital meters they have a HOLD function if your meter is on hold it will not read current .

steve
 
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Old 07-18-05, 10:17 PM
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I feel like an idiot. I had my multimeter on DC and not AC, thinking the output would be DC. Now, measuring the transformer output, I get 27 VAC. In my defense I refer to my original post where I did claim to be electronics-challenged.

So I replaced a transformer without really knowing if it's good or bad. No biggie.

I suspect the next steps would be to test about half a dozen components that are downstream from the transformer. Things like gas valve, on/off switch, igniter, etc.

The question is what to check, in what order, and most importantly *HOW*.

And, Steve, thanks again for your patience with me.

_Maz
 
  #10  
Old 07-19-05, 09:21 PM
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maz, i also apoligize, i should have caught your statment when you posted that you didn't have any 24 v DC in your first post, at any rate lets procede,

you now have 24 vac on the secondary side of your transformer, [ thats good] leave one lead connected to the transformer and follow the other wire thats connected to the transformer, it may or may not have a fuse in it , follow this wire down to the fuseabke link it is partially hidden by the gas valve, is white in color, connect to it, you should have 24 vac on this wire, if not the fuse is bad [ if you have one ] or the wire itself is bad,
if you have 24 vac at this wire , test the other terminal on the fuseable link and see if you have 24 vac there , if not the fuseable link is bad, if you indeed do have 24 vac follow the wire up to the next point which is the pressure switch, test the terminal that came from the fuseable link if you have 24 vac test the terminal on the other side of the pressure switch, note: the pump must be running to perform this test, .... if you do not have 24 vac , before replacing the pressure switch, clean the filter, after cleaning the filter , and you still have no 24 vac on the terminal, replace the pressure switch, if you had voltage before cleaning the filter or after and the heater still does not fire follow the wire to the side of the heater , you will have to remove the small access panel to trace these wires there are 2 hi limit switches, same process 24 vac to each switch and 24 vac from each switch, from the high limit switches the wire connecte to the thermistat board, remove the 2 or 4 screws and flop it out the front, leave all the wires connected, if you have 24 vac going to the thermistat its a black wire,
let me back up here the pressure switch is after the hi limit switches , same process tho, if you have 24 vac at the black wire buy a new thermister it has the two long black wires that plug into the back of the thermistat board,

plug the new thermister into the thermistat board, if the heater fires your in business if not you will have to replace the thermistat assy,

if you get to some point and get confused, stop and post back, we may get this up and running for your Xmas party.

just funnin, steve
 
 

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