Algae problem

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  #1  
Old 08-09-06, 06:50 AM
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Algae problem

Help ! My pool is green. I have a 24' round above ground pool w/ a sand filter. I just totally replaced the sand 2 weeks ago. If I don't run the filter I get lots of gunk (I assume dead algae) on the bottom. I've been vacuuming every day. I believe some of it is coming back thru the return. I've use a nylon over the return. No help. When the pump is running, I can't see 6" into the pool. My ph is 7.8, my TA is 80. My free chlorine seems to be a little low. I've shocked & used blue clarifier. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-09-06, 07:15 AM
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You're not shocking high enough or long enough. What's your CYA level?? That will determine the amount of chlorine you need to use. Are you using pucks/tabs to chlorinate. If you've been using these all summer, you may be overstabilized and need to drain off some water and refill. Many times, vacuuming will just make the water more cloudy if nothing is being killed off. Get a drop-based test kit and run all tests, you can omit the calcium test if you wish. Post results and we can help. You have to kill the algae before filtering does any good.

Since you don't know your cya level and need to start shocking now, I'd go pick up about 6 gallons of ultra, unscented bleach. I buy the larger (over a gallon) jugs, since it's more economical. Pour 2 of the large jugs into pool and circulate. Test chlorine level
a couple hrs. later. The bleach will chlorinate/shock WITHOUT adding more stabilizer.
Once your stabilizer (CYA), gets too high, the chlorine's effectiveness is severely compromised. You can also pick up some muratic acid to lower the pH to the 7.2-7.5 range...this will help chlorine work better.
 

Last edited by igneous; 08-09-06 at 07:26 AM.
  #3  
Old 08-09-06, 07:27 AM
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Sorry. I'm new to all this. I'm using pucks in the skimmer to chlorinate. What is the CYI ? I have the drop kit. It tests for free chlorine, Ph & TA. Do I need a different one ? I will start w/ adding the bleach. Thanks.
 
  #4  
Old 08-09-06, 07:44 AM
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CYA is cyuranic acid....which you've been adding with the pucks. It's also sold separately everywhere under the label "stabilizer/conditioner". You can get a decent little test kit at walmart for ~$12. It will test chlorine, pH, CYA, Total Alk.
and calcium hardness. You really don't need to worry about the calcium...only applies to concrete/plaster pools, but you can run the test just for the knowledge.
Sounds like you're overstabilized, since the pucks you're using have 50% stabilizer (cya). You want to shoot for 20-30 ppm of cya. This will allow you to run less chlorine to sanitize & shock.
If cya test # is 100, drain 3/4 of the water and refill. If cya = 60, drain off alittle more than half, refill and retest. See where I'm going?? Also, you'll have to use bleach exclusively. You could try to find a dichlor product without stabilizer, but most have stabilizer. I've read that it's around, but I can't get it where I live. Yes, you need to test cya, but you could just take a water sample to the closest pool store and they'll test it.
But you'll still need to do a partial drain/refill and run another test to confirm #'s. Don't worry, you'll find out how easy it is once you get the stabilizer right. Don't buy anything from the pool store, unless they have liquid shock, which is just a stronger bleach. You can use this if available, just use 1 gal. to raise the chlorine level whatever % CL is on the label. That is, 1 gal. of 12% liquid chlorine will raise 10k gallons of water 12%.
So if you have a 20k gal. pool, 1 gal. would raise it 6%, and so on.
REMEMBER THIS....YOU HAVE TO SHOCK TO A CERTAIN LEVEL (depending on cya)AND KEEP CHLORINE AT THAT LEVEL FOR AWHILE, DEPENDING ON HOW BAD THE ALGAE BLOOM IS. Doing it halfway will only result in bloom resisting insufficient chlorine/shock level....then you have to start all over.
 
  #5  
Old 08-09-06, 10:02 AM
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add 4 lbs of granular shock, 16ozs of a 60% polyquat algecide, and 1 qt of lquid floccculent and drop 2 stiks/ pucks in the skimmer, and circulate for 10 hrs while adding water to the pool to the highest safe full level . after 10 hrs. turmn the pool off , and allow the water to sit idle. in 10-12 hrs all the green should , (i repeat should) settle to the bottom. if not don't panic, it may take longer.
once it settles you will need to VAC TO WASTE, this will bypass the filter media and go directly out the backwash line , WARNING THIS WILL CAUSE THE WATER LEVEL TO DROP QUICKLY so while vacing you will need to add water.

once it clears and all the vacing is done grab a sample of water and go to you local pool supply and get a water analyis , you can outsource several balancing chems from the grocery store however its may be hard to get a 25lb box of sodium bicarb or calcuim chloride at the grocer. this will be your choice, then use 2 stiks or tabs in the skimmer as needed and use a maintence dose of the 60% poly algecide every 2 weeks and shock with 2 lbs granular 1 time a week. or as needed depending on the pool use and amount of rainfall.
I'm sure there will be some dissagreement on what i RECOMMEND. so good luck.
 
  #6  
Old 08-09-06, 12:18 PM
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vc's advice will not help if your CYA level is sky-hi. You can try it, it's your $$$$$$. Just check cya and let us know asap.
 
  #7  
Old 08-09-06, 02:57 PM
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what i recommend , high stabilizer won't affect it at all. all this talk about high stabilizer is really blown of proportion. yes it does affect it but not to the extent that it's gonning to cause the chlorine not to work. all you need to do is get a reasonable chlorine residule, thats it. let the floc do the work, and follow my instructions on vaccuming. this is a simple prolbem, don't allow it to become a major prolbem.

WORD OF CAUTION, DO NOT POUR LQUID CHLORINE AROUND THE SKIMMER IF THERE IS STIKS OR TABS THERE. THE 2 TYPES OF CHLORINE CAN NOT BE MIXED . THIS APPLIES TO GRANULAR CHL. AS WELL.
 

Last edited by VC-Racing; 08-09-06 at 03:18 PM.
  #8  
Old 08-10-06, 09:06 AM
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Kamp, let us know what you're doing and if it's working.
I disagree w/vc about adding "2 stick/pucks in the skimmer". That product would add more cya, and you don't want to do that. Like he said, the cal hypo will react with the acid in this
and could explode.
I actually did this once by adding some calhypo to a sock that had some cya still in the bottom...it sank to the bottom and when I brought it up with the net, it started expanding/heating and blew up. Good thing I got back just in time. Definitely be careful using stabilized and unstabilized chlorine products.
 
  #9  
Old 08-10-06, 09:32 AM
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I added bleach last night & my chlorine is up to 10+ (that's as high as my test kit reads). My test strip today shows a Ph of 7.8 and a TA of 80. I just took a water sample to the pool store. They said my Ph is 8.0. My TA is down to 30. Still not sure what my CYA is. The pool store won't let you see the paper unless you buy their products. (not my regular pool store, it was convient). The pool is still green. What next ?
 
  #10  
Old 08-10-06, 01:09 PM
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what does the water look like is it pea green or dark green ? if its pea green then go ahead and do the floc and follow my directions for vac'ing. with that high of a residule, as the chlorine breaks down you will get a high chloramine residule. this is what shock does, it oxidizes the chlorimines, bringing the free and total even. i know some will disagree but i would definitly add a dose of a 60 % poly quat algecide, this will allow the chlorine to work on the algea more effectivly . the algeacide acts similar to a surfactant, which reduces the surface tension on the organisim, allowing the chlorine to do its job.
 

Last edited by VC-Racing; 08-10-06 at 01:22 PM.
  #11  
Old 08-10-06, 01:38 PM
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Keep adding chlorine and filtering water....it's not going to work overnight. Do you know your cya level? You need to know this because if cya is ~100ppm, you have to shock to ~25ppm. Clarifier and algaecide is a waste of $ at this point. Once the chlorine starts improving the water, then I'd start floccing/vaccing.


Does it look like the pool below? sorry, gotta cut/paste

http://webpages.charter.net/rockg/dirtypool.htm
 
  #12  
Old 08-11-06, 04:58 AM
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Yes, my pool looks exactly like that. Should I let it settle & vac or just keep adding chlorine & filtering ?
 
  #13  
Old 08-11-06, 09:42 AM
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well , i would shut it down overnight if the water is starting to get lighter green and allow the gunk to settle, but it needs to vac'ed TO WASTE in the morning before it gets hot. then run the filter for 10-12 hrs, and repeat only shutting the pump down overnight.
can i ask what is the chl. reading today?

caution::: if the pool hasn't settled in the morning, regardless of what is happened that pump needs to run during the daytime hrs. only shut it down overnight.
IF IT settles this may speed the process of clearing but it may take a coulpe of days . it is your choice if you want to filter, if you decide to filter do a complete backwash and rinse, then note the start up pressure then, as a rule of thumb ,backwash at 10 psi over startup.
i can assure that what i recommend will be contridicted, so you will need to decide on what advice to follow .
 
  #14  
Old 08-11-06, 09:48 AM
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You kinda have to do all of it...just keep the chlorine level UP, which is the main thing. Letting it settle overnite and vaccing to waste should help get rid of the dead stuff that falls to the bottom. Just do like the guy on the site said, brush walls daily and keep filtering.
Stick with it.....it can be a week+ process depending on how much junk is in it and how hi/constant you keep the chlorine. You should see some improvement in water clarity after a few days. good luck
 
  #15  
Old 08-14-06, 11:19 AM
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Thanks everyone. My pool is looking better. I let it settle overnight & vac'ed to waste. I let it settle again & vac'ed one more time. It's much improved.
 
  #16  
Old 08-14-06, 01:29 PM
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make sure you keep the chl. level at a good residule. it may take several cleanings to get rid of all the dead algea. you are on the right track.
 
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